Can You Run a Cable to an Arlo Camera Here Is How

Can You Run a Cable to an Arlo Camera Here Is How

Featured image for can you run a cable to an arlo camera

Yes, you can run a cable to an Arlo camera to ensure continuous power and a more reliable connection, especially for models that support optional wired setups like the Arlo Pro series. Using an outdoor-rated power cable or Ethernet (with a PoE adapter) enhances performance and eliminates battery changes, but requires proper weatherproofing and professional installation for long-term durability.

Key Takeaways

  • Yes, you can run a cable to an Arlo camera for stable power and data.
  • Use weatherproof cables to protect outdoor connections from damage.
  • Power over Ethernet (PoE) simplifies setup with one cable for power and data.
  • Check camera compatibility before installing wired connections to avoid issues.
  • Professional installation recommended for complex wiring to ensure safety and performance.
  • Wired connections reduce battery changes and improve reliability over wireless setups.

Can You Run a Cable to an Arlo Camera? Here’s What You Need to Know

Imagine this: You’ve just installed your brand-new Arlo camera to keep an eye on your front porch. You’re excited—until you realize the battery is draining faster than expected. Or maybe the Wi-Fi signal keeps dropping, leaving blind spots in your security coverage. If you’ve ever found yourself asking, “Can I just run a cable to an Arlo camera?”, you’re not alone. I’ve been there too. The idea of a hardwired connection sounds like a dream—no more battery swaps, no more signal issues, just reliable, 24/7 monitoring. But is it really that simple?

The short answer? Yes, you *can* run a cable to an Arlo camera—but it’s not always plug-and-play, and the solution depends heavily on your setup, camera model, and willingness to get a little creative. In this guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of wired Arlo setups. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or just tired of charging batteries every few weeks, I’ll walk you through the options, the challenges, and the smart workarounds. Think of this as your friendly, no-nonsense roadmap to turning your wireless Arlo into a hardwired hero—without the headaches.

Understanding Arlo Camera Power and Connectivity

How Arlo Cameras Are Designed to Work

Let’s start with the basics. Most Arlo cameras—like the Arlo Pro, Ultra, and Essential series—are built as *wireless* devices. That means they rely on:

  • Battery power (rechargeable or replaceable)
  • Wi-Fi connectivity to communicate with your base station or directly to your router
  • Cloud or local storage for recordings

This design makes them easy to install anywhere, even in spots without nearby power outlets. But it also means they’re not natively designed for hardwired power or Ethernet connections. Unlike traditional security cameras that plug into a wall and use PoE (Power over Ethernet), Arlo’s wireless nature is both a strength and a limitation.

Why People Want to Run Cables

So why bother with cables at all? Because wireless isn’t perfect. Here are the most common pain points that push users toward wired solutions:

  • Battery anxiety: Frequent recharging (every 1–3 months) is annoying, especially for outdoor cameras.
  • Wi-Fi instability: Weak signals lead to dropped feeds, delayed notifications, or failed recordings.
  • Weather exposure: Outdoor battery packs degrade faster in extreme temperatures.
  • Continuous recording: Battery-powered cameras often use motion-activated recording. A wired camera can record 24/7 without draining batteries.

One friend of mine, Sarah, installed an Arlo Pro 4 on her back deck. After two months, she was recharging it every three weeks. “I just wanted peace of mind,” she told me. “But I kept forgetting to charge it, and then I’d miss footage.” That’s when she started exploring wired options.

Arlo’s Official Stance on Wiring

Arlo doesn’t officially support hardwiring cameras directly to power or Ethernet. Their design philosophy emphasizes flexibility and ease of use. However, they *do* offer accessories that make partial wiring possible—more on that later. The key takeaway: you can’t just plug an Arlo camera into a power outlet like a regular device. But with the right tools, you can get close.

Official Arlo Solutions for Wired Power

Arlo Solar Panel: The “Semi-Wired” Option

The most straightforward way to reduce battery dependence is the Arlo Solar Panel. It’s not a cable in the traditional sense, but it *does* provide continuous power through a 6.5-foot cable that connects to your camera.

  • How it works: The panel mounts outdoors (on a wall or roof) and charges the camera’s battery via sunlight.
  • Compatibility: Works with Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, Ultra 2, Essential, and Go models.
  • Pros: No drilling or wiring needed. Weather-resistant. Keeps the battery topped up.
  • Cons: Requires direct sunlight. Performance drops in winter or shaded areas. Still relies on the battery as a buffer.

Pro Tip: For best results, angle the panel south-facing (in the Northern Hemisphere) and clean it monthly to remove dirt or snow.

Arlo Outdoor Power Adapter: Direct AC Power

Arlo’s Outdoor Power Adapter is the closest thing to a “true” wired solution. It’s a weatherproof AC-to-DC power converter that plugs into a wall outlet and connects to your camera via a 10-foot cable.

  • How it works: The adapter converts household AC power (110V) to 5V DC, which matches the camera’s input. The cable ends in a USB-C or barrel connector (depending on the camera).
  • Compatibility: Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, and Ultra 2. *Not* for Essential or Go series.
  • Pros: Eliminates battery charging. Reliable 24/7 power. Weatherproof housing.
  • Cons: Requires an outdoor-rated outlet. Cable is only 10 feet long. Not for indoor use.

Real-World Example: My neighbor, Mark, installed this on his garage-mounted Arlo Pro 4. He drilled a small hole through the wall to run the cable inside, where it plugs into an outlet. “No more battery swaps,” he said. “And the camera never misses a motion event.”

Indoor Power Adapter for Base Station

While not for cameras, the Arlo Indoor Power Adapter is worth mentioning. It powers the base station (used by Pro/Ultra models) from a wall outlet, ensuring stable Wi-Fi for all connected cameras. If your base station is in a basement or garage, this prevents Wi-Fi dropouts caused by battery drain.

DIY Wiring Hacks (When Official Options Fall Short)

Extending the Outdoor Power Adapter Cable

The Arlo Outdoor Power Adapter’s 10-foot cable is often too short. But you can extend it—safely—with a few steps:

  1. Use a waterproof extension cord: Look for a male-to-female outdoor-rated extension cord (e.g., 16-gauge, 20-foot).
  2. Seal connections: Wrap joints in electrical tape and use a silicone sealant. For extra protection, place them in a weatherproof junction box.
  3. Test before mounting: Plug it in, check the camera’s power status in the Arlo app, and look for overheating.

Warning: Never splice or cut the Arlo cable itself. Use a proper extension cord to avoid voltage drops or fire hazards.

PoE (Power over Ethernet) Workarounds

Can you use a standard PoE cable? Not directly—Arlo cameras don’t support PoE. But here’s a clever workaround:

  1. Install a PoE splitter: This device takes a PoE cable (from your router or PoE switch) and splits it into two outputs: one for data (Ethernet) and one for power (USB).
  2. Connect the USB end to your Arlo: Use a USB-C or barrel connector cable (depending on your camera).
  3. Run the Ethernet to your router: This stabilizes Wi-Fi by reducing reliance on wireless signals.

Equipment Needed:

  • PoE switch or injector
  • PoE splitter (e.g., 802.3af, 5V/2A output)
  • Ethernet cable (Cat 5e or higher)
  • USB-C or barrel connector cable (for your camera)

Example Setup: A user named Alex ran a 50-foot Ethernet cable from his attic router to a backyard shed. He used a PoE splitter to power his Arlo Ultra and connect it via Ethernet. “The feed is rock-solid now,” he said. “No more buffering.”

Hardwiring with a DC Power Supply

For advanced DIYers, you can bypass the camera’s battery entirely using a DC power supply (e.g., 5V/2A wall adapter). This method requires:

  • Voltage regulator: Ensures stable 5V output (cameras are sensitive to power spikes).
  • Weatherproof enclosure: To protect the adapter outdoors.
  • Direct connection: Solder or use a connector to link the supply to the camera’s power port.

Risks: Voiding your warranty. Potential damage if voltage fluctuates. Only attempt this if you’re comfortable with electronics.

Addressing Wi-Fi and Network Stability with Wired Connections

Why Wi-Fi Matters for Arlo Cameras

Even with wired power, Arlo cameras still rely on Wi-Fi for video streaming and alerts. A weak signal can cause:

  • Delayed notifications
  • Pixelated video
  • Failed recordings

Running a cable for power *and* improving Wi-Fi is a one-two punch for reliability.

Using the Base Station as a Wired Bridge

If you have a Pro or Ultra camera with a base station, connect the base station to your router via Ethernet. This creates a dedicated network for your cameras, reducing interference from other devices.

Steps:

  1. Plug the base station into your router using an Ethernet cable.
  2. In the Arlo app, go to Settings > Base Station > Network and enable Wired Ethernet.
  3. Restart the base station.

Result: Cameras connect to the base station via Wi-Fi, but the base station itself is hardwired. This reduces latency and improves stability.

Ethernet-to-Wi-Fi Extenders for Camera Locations

For cameras far from the base station, use an Ethernet-to-Wi-Fi extender (e.g., TP-Link RE220). Plug it into an outdoor outlet, connect it to your router via Ethernet, and it rebroadcasts Wi-Fi to the camera.

Pro Tip: Place the extender halfway between your router and camera for the strongest signal.

Installation Tips and Safety Considerations

Planning Your Cable Run

Before drilling or running wires, plan carefully:

  • Measure distances: Add 10% extra length for bends or future adjustments.
  • Choose the right cable: For power, use outdoor-rated cords. For data, use Cat 6 Ethernet.
  • Check local codes: Some areas require permits for outdoor electrical work.

Protecting Cables from the Elements

Outdoor cables need protection from rain, UV rays, and pests. Use:

  • Conduit: PVC or metal tubing to shield cables from damage.
  • Waterproof tape: Wrap connections in self-fusing tape.
  • Cable clips: Secure cables to walls or soffits to prevent sagging.

Real-World Fix: A reader named Tom had his Arlo cable chewed by squirrels. He solved it by running the cable through a 1-inch PVC conduit along his gutter.

Electrical Safety First

Always prioritize safety:

  • Use GFCI outlets: Outdoor outlets should be protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.
  • Turn off power: When drilling or splicing, shut off the circuit breaker.
  • Consult an electrician: If you’re unsure, hire a pro. Electricity is unforgiving.

Comparison of Wiring Options for Arlo Cameras

Method Best For Max Cable Length Installation Difficulty Cost (Approx.)
Arlo Solar Panel Sunny locations 6.5 ft (panel to camera) Easy $80–$100
Arlo Outdoor Power Adapter Outdoor outlets 10 ft (adapter to camera) Moderate $50
PoE Splitter + Ethernet Tech-savvy users 300 ft (Ethernet limit) Hard $100–$150
DC Power Supply DIY experts Unlimited Very Hard $20–$40
Base Station Ethernet Pro/Ultra users 300 ft (Ethernet limit) Easy $0 (if you have a cable)

Final Thoughts: Is Wiring Your Arlo Camera Worth It?

So, can you run a cable to an Arlo camera? Absolutely—but it’s not one-size-fits-all. The Arlo Outdoor Power Adapter is the safest, most reliable option for most users. If you’re tech-savvy, a PoE splitter offers the ultimate in stability. And for those who want simplicity, the solar panel is a great middle ground.

But here’s the thing: Wiring isn’t just about convenience. It’s about peace of mind. When your camera is powered by a stable source and connected to a strong network, you stop worrying about missed events or dead batteries. You get the security you *paid* for.

My advice? Start small. Try the solar panel or power adapter first. If you hit a wall, explore the DIY options—but only if you’re comfortable. And remember: Safety comes first. There’s no shame in calling an electrician or a networking pro if things get tricky.

At the end of the day, your Arlo camera should work for *you*, not the other way around. Whether you go fully wired or stick with wireless, the goal is the same: a home that feels safe, 24/7. Now go forth—and power up your peace of mind.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you run a cable to an Arlo camera for power?

Yes, you can run a cable to an Arlo camera using a weatherproof power adapter or PoE (Power over Ethernet) for continuous power. This is ideal for cameras in hard-to-reach areas where battery changes are inconvenient.

How do I run a cable to an Arlo camera without drilling holes?

Use low-voltage outdoor-rated cables and route them along existing structures like eaves or gutters. Arlo offers solar panels and wireless accessories to minimize cable use while maintaining reliability.

Can you use an Ethernet cable with an Arlo camera?

Most Arlo cameras are wireless, but select models (like Arlo Pro 3/4 with PoE adapter) support Ethernet for stable connectivity. Check your camera’s specs to confirm PoE compatibility before running a cable to an Arlo camera.

What type of cable is needed to power an Arlo camera?

For wired power, use a UL-listed outdoor extension cord or a 16-24 AWG low-voltage cable with an Arlo-approved power adapter. Ensure the cable is rated for outdoor use to withstand weather conditions.

Is running a cable to an Arlo camera waterproof?

Yes, if you use waterproof connectors and outdoor-rated cables. Seal connection points with silicone or weatherproof tape to protect against moisture and ensure long-term durability.

Can you run a cable to an Arlo camera for better signal?

While most Arlo cameras rely on Wi-Fi, wired Ethernet (via PoE) can improve signal stability. This is useful in areas with weak wireless coverage or interference from other devices.