Attaching your Arlo camera to brick is simple and secure when you use the right tools—start by using a masonry drill bit and plastic anchors designed for brick surfaces. Ensure the camera mount is tightly fastened with stainless steel screws to prevent loosening from weather or vibration. This method guarantees a durable, professional installation that protects your camera and maximizes coverage.

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How to Attach Arlo Camera to Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Key Takeaways

• Use masonry screws: Securely fasten your Arlo camera to brick without wobbling.
• Pre-drill pilot holes: Prevent brick cracking and ensure precise camera placement.
• Anchor for stability: Always use wall anchors for added support on brick surfaces.
• Check camera angle: Adjust before tightening to capture the ideal field of view.
• Seal screw holes: Apply silicone caulk to protect against weather damage.
• Test camera stability: Gently shake to confirm secure attachment after installation.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be real—security is a top concern for homeowners, and Arlo cameras are one of the best wireless options out there. But if you’ve ever tried mounting one on brick, you’ve probably hit a wall (literally). Unlike wood or siding, brick is tough, brittle, and unforgiving. One wrong move, and you’re left with cracked mortar or a camera that won’t stay put.

That’s why how to attach Arlo camera to brick in 2026 easy guide isn’t just about drilling holes—it’s about doing it right the first time. I’ve been there: I once used the wrong drill bit, stripped the anchor, and had to redo everything. Trust me, you don’t want that headache. Whether you’re installing your first Arlo or upgrading your setup, this guide will help you get it done safely, securely, and without damaging your home.

We’ll cover everything from choosing the right tools to avoiding common pitfalls—so your camera stays where it belongs: on the wall, not on the ground.

What You Need

Before you start, gather these tools and materials. Most are easy to find, and some you might already have in your garage or toolbox.

• Arlo camera and mount (check your model—some come with brick-specific hardware)
• Masonry drill bit (carbide-tipped) – 5/32” or 3/16” for standard anchors
• Power drill with hammer function – essential for brick
• Plastic or metal wall anchors – 3/16” or 1/4” size, rated for masonry
• Phillips screwdriver or drill bit – for securing the mount
• Measuring tape and pencil – for marking drill points
• Level – so your camera isn’t crooked (nobody likes a tilted view)
• Vacuum or brush – to clean out dust from holes
• Safety goggles and gloves – brick dust is no joke
• Optional: stud finder with masonry mode – helps locate mortar lines or voids

Pro tip: If your Arlo kit didn’t include masonry hardware, buy a universal brick mounting kit from your local hardware store. Look for anchors labeled “for brick and concrete.”

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Attach Arlo Camera to Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Step 1: Choose the Right Location

First, think about what you’re trying to monitor. Is it your front porch, back yard, or side gate? Pick a spot with:

• Good Wi-Fi signal (check your Arlo app for signal strength)
• Clear line of sight—no overhangs or thick foliage blocking the lens
• At least 7–10 feet high to deter tampering
• Access to a nearby power source (if using a wired model)

Now, here’s the brick-specific part: avoid drilling directly into a brick if you can. Why? Bricks are brittle. They crack easily, especially older ones. Instead, aim for the mortar joints—the gray lines between bricks. Mortar is softer and more forgiving.

Warning: If you must drill into brick (no mortar access), go slow and use a hammer drill on low speed. Even then, there’s a risk of cracking. I once cracked a historic brick—lesson learned.

Use your measuring tape and level to mark the ideal spot. Hold the Arlo mount against the wall and trace the screw holes with a pencil. Double-check alignment with your level.

Step 2: Prepare Your Drill and Bits

Not all drills are created equal. For brick, you need a hammer drill—it pounds while it spins, making it perfect for masonry. Regular drills won’t cut it.

• Insert the carbide-tipped masonry bit into the drill.
• Set the drill to hammer mode (usually a switch near the chuck).
• Start with a pilot hole—use a smaller bit (1/8”) to guide the larger one. This prevents wandering.

Why a pilot hole? I skipped this once, and the bit slipped, chipping the brick. A pilot hole keeps everything on track. It’s like a guide rail for your drill.

Wear your safety goggles and gloves. Brick dust is abrasive and can irritate your eyes and skin.

Step 3: Drill the Holes

Now comes the fun part—drilling. But take your time. Rushing leads to mistakes.

1. Place the drill bit on your pencil mark. Hold it straight and level.
2. Start at low speed and low pressure. Let the drill do the work.
3. Once the bit bites in, increase pressure slightly. Keep the drill perpendicular to the wall.
4. Drill to the depth of your anchor (usually 1–1.5 inches).
5. Pull the bit out slowly while it’s still spinning to clear dust.

Pro tip: Drill one hole at a time. Don’t try to do both at once. It’s easier to adjust if something goes wrong.

If you hit a hard spot, don’t force it. Back out and reposition slightly. Sometimes bricks have embedded stones or dense spots.

Common mistake: Using a wood bit or regular drill bit. I’ve seen people try—it just spins and burns, never penetrates. Save yourself the frustration and use the right tool.

Step 4: Clean the Holes

Drilling leaves behind a ton of fine dust. If you skip cleaning, your anchor won’t sit flush, and your camera will wobble.

• Use a vacuum with a narrow nozzle to suck out the dust.
• Or, blow into the hole with a straw (yes, really—it works in a pinch).
• For a deeper clean, use a masonry brush (like a small bottle brush).

I keep a small brush in my toolkit just for this. It’s cheap, reusable, and makes a huge difference. A clean hole = a secure anchor.

Step 5: Insert the Anchors

Now, gently tap the plastic or metal anchor into each hole. Use a hammer or the back of your drill.

• Push until the anchor is flush with the wall.
• Don’t force it—if it’s too tight, the hole might be too small. Re-drill slightly.
• If the anchor spins, it’s not seated. Tap it deeper.

Plastic anchors are easier to install but less durable long-term. Metal anchors (like sleeve anchors) are stronger but harder to insert. For Arlo cameras, plastic is usually fine—unless you live in a high-wind area.

Once both anchors are in, give them a gentle tug. They should not move. If they do, the hole was too big. You’ll need to patch and start over.

Step 6: Attach the Mount

Take your Arlo mount and align it with the anchors.

• Insert the screws (usually included with the mount).
• Use a screwdriver or drill with a Phillips bit to tighten—but don’t over-tighten.
• Stop when the mount is snug and doesn’t wobble.

Over-tightening is a common mistake. I’ve seen people crank down so hard they crack the plastic mount or strip the anchor. You want it tight enough to hold, not tight enough to break.

Use your level again to confirm the mount is straight. A crooked camera is not only annoying—it can miss critical footage.

Step 7: Mount the Arlo Camera

Now for the satisfying part—attaching your camera.

• Align the camera with the mount’s slot or screw holes.
• Slide or screw it into place (depending on your model).
• Lock it if there’s a security feature (like a twist lock).

Give the camera a gentle shake. It should stay put. If it moves, check the mount screws and tighten slightly.

Power it on and open the Arlo app. Check the view. Adjust the angle if needed. Most Arlo mounts let you tilt and swivel for the perfect shot.

Step 8: Test and Finalize

Before you call it a day, run a full test:

• Check Wi-Fi signal strength in the app.
• Trigger motion detection (wave at the camera).
• Verify video quality and night vision.
• Ensure the view covers the intended area (no blind spots).

If something’s off, adjust the camera angle or reposition the mount. It’s easier to fix now than after the adhesive or paint dries.

For extra security, consider using security screws (like tamper-proof Torx). They prevent vandals from removing your camera.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After installing dozens of Arlo cameras (and making every mistake possible), here are my top insider tips:

Pro Tip #1: Use a laser level for long runs. If you’re installing multiple cameras, a laser level ensures they’re all aligned. No more “drunken” camera lines.

Pro Tip #2: Seal the screw heads with clear caulk. This prevents water from seeping into the holes and freezing in winter. I learned this after a camera fell off during a freeze-thaw cycle.

Pro Tip #3: Label your anchors. If you ever need to remove the camera, knowing which anchor is which saves time. I use a tiny dot of paint on the screw head.

Pro Tip #4: Check your local HOA rules. Some neighborhoods have restrictions on camera placement or visible hardware. Better safe than sorry.

Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

• Drilling into brick instead of mortar: Stick to mortar when possible. It’s stronger and less likely to crack.
• Using the wrong bit: Masonry bits are marked with “carbide” or “masonry.” Don’t use wood or metal bits.
• Skipping the pilot hole: It guides the larger bit and reduces slipping.
• Not cleaning the hole: Dust reduces anchor grip. Always clean before inserting.
• Over-tightening screws: It damages the mount and anchor. Tighten until snug—then stop.
• Ignoring Wi-Fi signal: A weak signal leads to dropped recordings. Test signal strength before mounting.

Bonus: If you’re in a historic or protected area, consult a preservation expert before drilling. Some bricks are irreplaceable.

FAQs About How to Attach Arlo Camera to Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Q: Can I use regular wall anchors for brick?

Nope. Regular drywall anchors won’t hold in brick. They’re designed for soft materials. Use masonry anchors—plastic or metal sleeves that expand when you tighten the screw. Trust me, I tried once with drywall anchors. The camera fell off in a week.

Q: What if I hit a hollow spot in the brick?

Some older bricks are hollow. If your drill bit goes in too easily or the anchor spins, you’ve hit a void. Try repositioning the hole slightly. Or, use a toggle anchor—it expands behind the brick. Just make sure it’s rated for masonry.

Q: Can I use adhesive instead of drilling?

You can, but it’s risky. Adhesive (like heavy-duty double-sided tape or construction glue) works for light cameras—but brick is porous and dusty. Over time, the bond weakens. I’ve seen adhesive fail in extreme heat or cold. For a permanent, secure mount, drilling is best.

Q: How do I remove an Arlo camera from brick without damaging it?

Unscrew the mount carefully. If the anchor is stuck, use a screw extractor. For damaged holes, patch with masonry filler and paint to match. Avoid yanking the camera—it can crack the brick.

Q: What’s the best height for mounting?

7–10 feet is ideal. High enough to deter tampering, low enough to capture clear facial details. If you’re worried about reach, use a ladder with a spotter. Safety first!

Q: Do I need a permit to install security cameras?

It depends on your local laws and HOA rules. In most areas, residential cameras don’t require permits—but check your city’s website. Also, avoid pointing cameras at neighbors’ windows or private areas. Privacy matters.

Q: Can I install an Arlo camera on painted brick?

Yes, but clean the surface first. Paint can flake, reducing anchor grip. Use a wire brush to remove loose paint around the drill site. Then follow the same steps. The anchor needs to grip the brick, not the paint.

Final Thoughts

Attaching an Arlo camera to brick doesn’t have to be intimidating. With the right tools, a little patience, and this how to attach Arlo camera to brick in 2026 easy guide, you can do it yourself—no contractor needed.

Remember: take your time, drill into mortar when possible, clean your holes, and don’t over-tighten. A secure, level mount means a camera that works when you need it most.

And hey, if you mess up? It’s okay. I’ve cracked bricks, stripped anchors, and even dropped a camera once. What matters is learning from it. Your second mount will be perfect.

Now go out there, install that camera, and enjoy peace of mind. You’ve got this.

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