Learn how to safely disassemble your Arlo camera in 2026 with our expert step-by-step guide—designed for both beginners and advanced users seeking repairs, modifications, or upgrades. Follow precise instructions to avoid damage and ensure full reassembly, covering tool requirements, component handling, and pro tips for a seamless process.

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How to Disassemble Arlo Camera in 2026 Expert Guide

Key Takeaways

• Power off first: Always disconnect the Arlo camera from power before disassembly.
• Use correct tools: A precision screwdriver set prevents damage to tiny screws and casing.
• Document each step: Take photos during disassembly to ensure accurate reassembly later.
• Handle lenses carefully: Avoid touching or scratching the camera lens during removal.
• Label components: Organize screws and parts by step to streamline reassembly.
• Check warranty: Disassembling may void warranty—verify terms before proceeding.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

So, your Arlo camera isn’t working right. Maybe it’s glitchy, the battery won’t charge, or you’ve noticed condensation behind the lens. You’ve checked the app, rebooted the base station, and even tried a factory reset—but nothing helps. Sound familiar?

At this point, disassembly might feel like a last resort. But here’s the truth: how to disassemble Arlo camera in 2026 expert guide isn’t just about fixing broken units. It’s about understanding your device, extending its lifespan, and avoiding unnecessary replacements.

Back when I first got my Arlo Ultra, I thought these cameras were “set and forget.” Then, after two years, the battery started swelling. I panicked—until I realized that opening the case wasn’t as scary as it seemed. With the right tools and a calm mindset, I replaced the battery and saved $150.

Disassembling your Arlo isn’t just for pros. Whether you’re cleaning internal dust, replacing a battery, or troubleshooting a hardware fault, knowing how to take it apart safely is a game-changer. And yes, it’s totally doable in 2026, even with newer models like the Arlo Pro 5, Arlo Essential 2, or the rugged Arlo Go 2.

This guide walks you through the process step by step—without jargon, without fluff. Just real, practical advice from someone who’s been elbow-deep in a camera housing more times than I care to admit.

What You Need

Before you start, gather your toolkit. You don’t need a full electronics lab—just a few essentials. Here’s what worked for me across multiple Arlo models:

• Plastic pry tools or spudgers – Metal tools can scratch or damage plastic seams. I use the iFixit toolkit—cheap and reliable.
• Precision Phillips screwdriver (PH0 or PH00) – Most Arlo models use tiny screws. A magnetic tip helps avoid losing them.
• Heat gun or hair dryer – To soften adhesive around the housing, especially on weatherproof models.
• Isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher) and cotton swabs – For cleaning contacts and removing old adhesive residue.
• Replacement parts (if needed) – Battery, lens cover, or internal ribbon cables. I buy from reputable third-party vendors like iFixit or Amazon (check reviews).
• Small container or magnetic mat – To organize screws and small parts. Trust me, losing one screw can ruin your day.
• Anti-static wrist strap (optional but smart) – Prevents static discharge that could fry sensitive components.

Pro insight: Never use a knife or screwdriver to pry open the housing. I learned that the hard way—scratches on the lens housing are permanent and affect image quality.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Disassemble Arlo Camera in 2026 Expert Guide

This guide covers the most common Arlo models in 2026: Arlo Pro 4, Pro 5, Essential 2, and Go 2. While each has slight differences, the core disassembly process is similar. I’ll point out model-specific quirks as we go.

Step 1: Power Down and Remove from Mount

First, power off the camera. If it’s connected to a base station, unplug the station or turn off the camera via the Arlo app. For battery-powered models, remove the battery.

Next, take it down from its mount. Most Arlo cameras use a magnetic or clip-on mount. Gently twist or pull—don’t yank. I once cracked a housing by pulling too hard on a magnetic mount in cold weather (plastic gets brittle).

Set the camera on a soft surface (like a microfiber cloth) to avoid scratching the lens or body.

Warning: Never disassemble a camera while powered. Even low-voltage circuits can cause shorts or data loss.

Step 2: Locate and Remove External Screws

Flip the camera over. Look for screws—usually under rubber feet or near the battery compartment. On the Arlo Pro 4 and Pro 5, there are two screws under the rear rubber feet. On the Essential 2, they’re under the side flap.

Use your PH0 or PH00 screwdriver to remove them. Place screws in your container. Label them if you’re working on multiple models.

Some newer Arlo models (like the Go 2) use no external screws. These rely on adhesive and internal clips. More on that in Step 3.

For models with screws: once removed, set them aside. You’ll need them for reassembly.

Step 3: Loosen Adhesive and Pry Open the Housing

This is where patience pays off. Arlo cameras use strong adhesive to keep the housing sealed—especially important for weatherproofing.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat (around 150°F/65°C) and gently warm the seam for 60–90 seconds. Move the heat source in a circular motion—don’t hold it in one spot.

After heating, insert a plastic pry tool into the seam (usually along the top or bottom edge). Gently wiggle it to create a gap. Work slowly around the perimeter.

For models without external screws (like the Go 2), start at the charging port side. The adhesive is thickest there, but once you break the seal, the rest comes easier.

As you pry, you’ll hear soft “clicks”—that’s the internal clips releasing. Keep going until you can open the housing like a clamshell.

Pro tip: If you feel resistance, apply more heat. Forcing it can crack the plastic or damage internal connectors.

Step 4: Disconnect Internal Components

Now you’re inside. Take a deep breath. You’ll see the main board, battery, lens assembly, and ribbon cables.

First, disconnect the battery. Most Arlo models use a 2-pin or 3-pin connector. Gently lift the plastic tab (if present) and pull the connector straight out. Never pull on the wires—only the connector.

Next, locate the ribbon cables. These connect the camera sensor, Wi-Fi module, and buttons to the main board. They use ZIF (zero insertion force) connectors. To disconnect:

• Use a plastic spudger to lift the small black or brown locking flap.
• Slide the ribbon cable out gently.

Label each cable with tape or a photo. The camera sensor ribbon (usually widest) connects near the lens. The button ribbon is thinner and near the power button.

On the Arlo Pro 5, there’s an additional ribbon for the spotlight. Don’t skip it!

Step 5: Remove the Main Board

The main board holds the processor, memory, and wireless chip. It’s usually secured with 2–3 small screws.

Remove the screws and set them aside. Then, gently lift the board. Be careful—there may be a small antenna wire (usually black or white) clipped to the housing or board. Detach it carefully.

On the Arlo Essential 2, the board is smaller and sits closer to the lens. Use a spudger to lift it from the edges.

Once free, place the board on an anti-static surface (or a clean cloth). Avoid touching the gold contacts.

Step 6: Access the Lens and Sensor (If Needed)

Only disassemble this far if you’re replacing the lens, cleaning the sensor, or troubleshooting focus issues.

The lens assembly is usually held by two screws. Remove them, then gently lift the lens module. Underneath, you’ll see the image sensor (a small green or black chip).

To clean the sensor:

• Blow away dust with a rocket blower (not canned air—it can leave residue).
• Use a lens cleaning pen or cotton swab with a drop of isopropyl alcohol. Gently wipe the sensor surface.

On the Arlo Go 2, the lens is sealed behind a glass panel. You’ll need to remove the front bezel (held by adhesive) first.

Warning: Touching the sensor with fingers can leave oils. Always use lint-free tools.

Step 7: Remove the Battery (If Replacing)

Most Arlo batteries are lithium-polymer and glued to the housing. To remove:

• Apply heat around the battery edges (low heat, 30 seconds).
• Use a plastic spudger to slowly lift the battery. Work from one corner.
• Scrape off old adhesive with a spudger or plastic card.

Clean the housing with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. Let it dry completely before installing a new battery.

When installing the new battery, use double-sided adhesive tape or a battery pad (available in repair kits). Press firmly for 30 seconds to ensure a strong bond.

Step 8: Reassemble the Camera

Now, reverse the steps. But here’s where most people go wrong: rushing.

Start by reconnecting the ribbon cables. Make sure the locking flap is fully closed—otherwise, the connection won’t be secure. I once spent an hour troubleshooting a “no signal” issue only to realize the camera ribbon wasn’t locked.

Reattach the main board and secure it with screws. Reconnect the battery last.

Before closing the housing, do a quick test: insert the battery (or plug in the base station) and power it on. If it lights up and connects to the app, you’re golden. If not, double-check all connections.

Once it works, close the housing. Press the two halves together firmly. For models with adhesive, use a small amount of weatherproof adhesive (like Loctite 401) along the seam. Avoid over-gluing—it can seep inside.

Reinstall the external screws. Don’t overtighten—just snug.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After years of tinkering with Arlo cameras, here’s what I’ve learned the hard way:

• Label everything. Take photos at each step. I use my phone to snap pics of connectors, screw locations, and ribbon orientations. Saved me twice when I forgot which cable went where.
• Don’t skip the heat. Cold plastic is brittle. I once cracked an Arlo Pro 4 housing because I pried without heating. Now, I always warm it first—even in summer.
• Use the right tools. A metal knife might seem easier, but it scratches plastic and can damage internal circuits. Plastic pry tools are worth the $10.
• Check the warranty. If your camera is under warranty, disassembly voids it. For 2026 models, most Arlo warranties last 1 year. If it’s still covered, contact Arlo support first.
• Test before sealing. I can’t stress this enough. Test the camera before reapplying adhesive or closing the housing. It’s way easier to fix a loose cable with the case open.
• Watch for water damage. If you see corrosion on the board or connectors, clean it with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. Let it dry for 24 hours before reassembly.

Personal story: I once disassembled an Arlo Go 2 that had been left in a rainy shed. The battery had corroded, and the board had green spots. I cleaned it, replaced the battery, and it worked perfectly for another year. Disassembly isn’t just for upgrades—it’s for rescue missions.

Another common mistake? Forgetting to remove the SD card (on models with local storage). If you’re replacing the board, the SD card won’t transfer data. Always back up footage first.

And finally: don’t force anything. Arlo cameras use precision engineering. If a part won’t budge, stop and reassess. More heat, more patience—never brute force.

FAQs About How to Disassemble Arlo Camera in 2026 Expert Guide

Let’s tackle the questions I get most often.

Can I disassemble my Arlo camera without voiding the warranty?

In most cases, yes—but it depends. Arlo’s warranty typically covers defects, not user modifications. If you open the camera and later have a hardware issue, they may deny the claim if they see signs of tampering.

My advice? If your camera is under warranty and has a serious problem (like a dead battery or no power), contact Arlo first. For 2026 models, they may offer free repair or replacement. Save disassembly for out-of-warranty units or non-defect fixes (like battery swaps).

Is it safe to replace the battery myself?

Absolutely—if you’re careful. Lithium-polymer batteries are safe when handled properly. Just avoid puncturing, crushing, or overheating them.

Use a genuine or high-quality third-party battery (look for UL certification). I recommend brands like Cameron Sino or iFixit. Avoid cheap “no-name” batteries—they can swell or fail.

Will disassembling affect the camera’s weatherproof rating?

Yes, but you can restore it. The original adhesive creates a watertight seal. When reassembling, use a weatherproof adhesive (like B7000 or Loctite 401) and press the housing firmly.

For extra protection, apply a small bead of silicone sealant around the seam. Let it cure for 24 hours before mounting outdoors.

What if I break a ribbon cable?

It happens. Ribbon cables are delicate. If one tears, you’ll need to replace it. Check iFixit or eBay for Arlo-specific ribbon cables (search by model number).

Installation is simple: just slide it into the ZIF connector and lock the flap. But if you’re not comfortable, consider sending it to a repair shop. It’s often cheaper than buying a new camera.

How do I clean the lens without disassembling?

Good news: you usually don’t need to open the camera. Use a microfiber cloth and lens cleaner (or a drop of isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab). Gently wipe in a circular motion.

For stubborn smudges, try a lens pen. Only disassemble if the lens is cracked or the sensor is dirty.

Can I upgrade the camera’s internal components?

Not really. Arlo cameras are designed as sealed units. The processor, memory, and wireless chip are soldered to the board. You can’t “upgrade” them like a PC.

But you can replace the battery, lens, or Wi-Fi antenna (on some models). These swaps can breathe new life into an old camera.

How long does disassembly take?

For a first-timer: 60–90 minutes. After a few tries, you can do it in 30. The key is patience—especially when dealing with adhesive and tiny screws.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to disassemble Arlo camera in 2026 expert guide isn’t about becoming an engineer. It’s about taking control. Instead of tossing a $100 camera because the battery died, you can fix it yourself.

Remember: start slow, use the right tools, and test as you go. I’ve revived cameras with foggy lenses, swollen batteries, and even water damage—all thanks to this process.

And if you’re nervous? That’s okay. I was too the first time. But once you open that housing and see the simple, elegant design inside, you’ll realize: these cameras aren’t magic. They’re machines—and machines can be repaired.

So grab your toolkit, take a deep breath, and dive in. Your Arlo camera will thank you. And who knows? You might just save a few hundred bucks along the way.

Now, go make your smart home a little smarter—starting with what’s inside.

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