Hardwiring your Arlo camera in 2026 ensures uninterrupted power and enhanced reliability, eliminating battery changes and Wi-Fi dropouts. This guide walks you through selecting the right PoE adapter, running Ethernet cables, and securely connecting your Arlo Pro 5 or Ultra 2 to a power source for 24/7 surveillance. Perfect for weather-prone areas and high-traffic zones, hardwiring maximizes performance and peace of mind.

How to Hardwire Arlo Camera in 2026: A Complete Guide

Key Takeaways

• Hardwiring ensures uninterrupted power and reduces battery replacements.
• Use outdoor-rated cables for safe, weatherproof installations.
• Turn off power first to avoid electrical hazards during setup.
• Follow Arlo’s voltage guidelines to prevent camera damage.
• Secure connections tightly to maintain reliable performance over time.
• Test the system post-install to confirm stable power delivery.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Imagine this: you’re halfway through a backyard BBQ when you realize your Arlo camera just died mid-party. Again. You’re not alone. Battery-powered Arlo cameras are great for quick setups, but they come with a frustrating trade-off — constant recharging, unexpected downtime, and the nagging fear that your security system might blink out when you need it most.

That’s where learning how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 comes in. Hardwiring means connecting your camera directly to a power source using low-voltage wiring instead of relying on batteries. It’s not just about convenience — it’s about reliability, peace of mind, and future-proofing your home security setup.

Whether you’re upgrading an older model, installing a new one, or just tired of climbing ladders to swap batteries, this guide walks you through the process step by step. No electrician required (though I’ll tell you when to call one). And yes, it works even if your Arlo isn’t “designed” for hardwiring — we’ll cover the smart workarounds too.

By the end, you’ll know exactly how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 safely, efficiently, and without voiding your warranty (or shocking yourself). Let’s get started.

What You Need

Before we dive into the steps, let’s gather everything you’ll need. Don’t worry — most of this is either already in your toolbox or easily found at any hardware store or online.

• Arlo camera compatible with hardwiring (we’ll break down which models work best in a sec)
• Arlo Solar Panel (optional but recommended) – acts as a bridge between your camera and hardwired power
• Low-voltage DC power adapter (12V–24V, 1A minimum) – choose one with a barrel plug that fits your Arlo model
• Low-voltage wire (18-gauge stranded, outdoor-rated) – use CL2/CL3-rated cable for indoor runs; direct burial for outdoor
• Wire strippers and crimping tool – basic hand tools you probably own
• Drill and drill bits (with masonry bit if drilling through brick/concrete)
• Fish tape (for running wire through walls)
• Weatherproof junction box or outdoor-rated electrical box – keeps connections dry and safe
• Silicone sealant or waterproof conduit – essential for outdoor installations
• Multimeter (optional but helpful) – to test voltage before connecting
• Zip ties and mounting hardware – for securing wires and the camera

Pro Tip: If you’re unsure which power adapter to buy, check your Arlo model’s specs. Most newer Arlo Pro, Ultra, and Essential models accept 12V DC via a 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel plug. Older models may vary slightly, so double-check!

Now, here’s the good news: you don’t have to run high-voltage AC lines to your camera. We’re using low-voltage DC power, which is much safer and easier to handle — especially if you’re doing this yourself. This is why how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 is totally doable for DIYers.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Hardwire Arlo Camera in 2026: A Complete Guide

Step 1: Choose the Right Arlo Model & Confirm Compatibility

Not all Arlo cameras are created equal when it comes to hardwiring. Some were built for it; others need a little creativity. Here’s what you need to know:

• Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, Ultra 2, Essential (wired models): These are designed for hardwiring. They come with a built-in DC power port. Easy win.
• Arlo Go, Go 2, Essential (wireless models): These rely on batteries, but you can still hardwire them using the Arlo Solar Panel as a power bridge.
• Arlo Pro 1 & 2: These don’t have a DC port, but you can use a battery eliminator kit (more on that later).

Check your camera’s bottom or side. If you see a small rubber-covered port labeled “DC IN” or “POWER,” you’re in luck. If not, don’t panic — we’ve got solutions.

Warning: Never try to modify the internal battery compartment unless you’re experienced. It’s dangerous and voids your warranty. Stick to external power solutions.

Once you’ve confirmed your model, decide whether you want continuous power (ideal) or solar-assisted hardwiring (great for remote locations). Either way, this step sets the foundation for how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 successfully.

Step 2: Pick Your Power Source Location

Now, think like an electrician (but a chill one). Where will the power come from?

You have three main options:

• Near an outdoor AC outlet: Run a low-voltage transformer from the outlet to your camera location. Use a weatherproof box to house the transformer.
• Inside the house (garage, attic, basement): Run the low-voltage wire through the wall to an indoor power source. Safer and easier in winter.
• Using an existing low-voltage system: Got landscape lighting or a doorbell transformer? You might be able to tap into it (with caution).

I once tried tapping into my doorbell transformer — bad idea. It couldn’t handle the extra load, and my doorbell stopped working. Learn from my mistake: always verify the transformer’s output (12V–24V DC, 1A+) before connecting anything.

Use your multimeter to test the voltage at the source. If it reads between 12V and 24V DC, you’re golden. If it’s AC or outside that range, don’t connect — find another source.

This planning phase is crucial. Skipping it leads to short circuits, fried cameras, or worse — a fire hazard. Take your time. A well-chosen power source makes how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 smooth and safe.

Step 3: Run the Low-Voltage Wire from Source to Camera

This is the trickiest part — but also the most rewarding once done right. We’re going to run a low-voltage cable from your power source to the camera location.

Here’s how:

1. Measure the distance between your power source and camera. Add 10–15 feet extra for slack and turns.
2. Choose the right wire: For runs under 50 feet, 18-gauge stranded copper wire works fine. For longer runs, go with 16-gauge to prevent voltage drop.
3. Drill a small hole (3/8 inch) through the wall or siding at both ends. Use a masonry bit for brick or stucco.
4. Feed the wire through using a fish tape. Tape the wire to the fish tape and pull it through. If going underground, bury the wire at least 6–12 inches deep and use direct-burial-rated cable.
5. Leave extra wire at both ends — about 12 inches at the power source and 18 inches at the camera site.

Pro Tip: Label both ends of the wire with tape (“Arlo Power – Do Not Cut”). Future you will thank past you when you’re troubleshooting.

If you’re running wire through an attic or basement, secure it every 18–24 inches with zip ties or clips. Avoid sharp bends — they can damage the internal strands over time.

And please — never run low-voltage and high-voltage wires in the same conduit. That’s a code violation and a serious safety risk. Keep them at least 12 inches apart.

Running the wire correctly is what separates a clean, reliable installation from a messy, unreliable one. This step is key to mastering how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026.

Step 4: Install a Weatherproof Junction Box at the Camera Site

You’ve got the wire to the camera location. Now, protect the connection.

Install a weatherproof junction box (also called a “weatherhead” or “outdoor electrical box”) where the wire exits the wall. This box does three things:

• Protects the wire from moisture
• Provides a clean, organized connection point
• Makes future maintenance easy

Here’s how to set it up:

1. Mount the box to the wall using screws and anchors (use plastic anchors for stucco or brick).
2. Feed the wire through a waterproof grommet or conduit entry on the bottom of the box.
3. Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from the wire ends.
4. Connect the positive (red) and negative (black) wires to a terminal block or use waterproof wire nuts.
5. Seal the entry point with silicone sealant or a rubber grommet.
6. Close the box tightly and test for leaks (you can use a spray bottle with water).

I learned this the hard way after a storm flooded my first junction box. Now, I always use silicone around the edges and double-check the seal. A little extra time here prevents big headaches later.

This step ensures your hardwired setup survives rain, snow, and humidity — critical for how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 in any climate.

Step 5: Connect the Power Adapter & Test the Voltage

Now, let’s bring power into the equation — safely.

At your power source (outdoor outlet or indoor location):

1. Plug in your low-voltage DC power adapter (12V–24V, 1A minimum).
2. Strip the adapter’s output wire and connect it to the incoming low-voltage wire using waterproof wire nuts or a terminal block.
3. Use heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape to insulate the connection.
4. Seal the connection box if outdoors.

Now, go back to the camera junction box and test the voltage with a multimeter:

• Set the multimeter to DC voltage (20V range).
• Touch the probes to the positive and negative terminals.
• You should read between 12V and 24V DC.

Warning: If the voltage is below 10V, you have a voltage drop issue — likely due to long wire runs or undersized wire. Fix it before proceeding. A weak power supply can damage your camera.

If the voltage is good, disconnect the power and proceed. This testing phase is non-negotiable. It confirms your wiring works and prevents costly mistakes.

Step 6: Connect the Camera (Two Methods)

Here’s where things split based on your Arlo model. Let’s cover both scenarios.

Method A: For Cameras with Built-In DC Port (Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, Essential Wired)

These are the easiest to hardwire.

1. Cut a short piece of 18-gauge wire (about 6 inches).
2. Strip both ends and connect one end to the junction box terminals (positive to positive, negative to negative).
3. Solder or crimp a 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC barrel plug to the other end.
4. Plug the barrel plug into your Arlo camera’s DC IN port.
5. Power on the adapter and wait for the camera to boot up.

Pro tip: Use a right-angle barrel plug if space is tight. It prevents strain on the port.

Method B: For Battery-Only Cameras (Go, Essential Wireless, etc.)

No DC port? No problem. Use the Arlo Solar Panel as a power bridge.

1. Connect the low-voltage wire from the junction box to the solar panel’s input terminals (positive to positive, negative to negative).
2. Mount the solar panel nearby (facing south, 30–45 degree tilt).
3. Plug the solar panel’s USB or barrel plug into your Arlo camera.
4. Turn on the power adapter. The solar panel will act as a regulator and power the camera.

This method is brilliant because the solar panel handles voltage regulation, so you don’t risk overpowering the camera. Plus, it doubles as a backup during power outages.

For older Arlo Pro 1/2 models, consider a battery eliminator kit — a small device that replaces the battery and accepts DC power. Just make sure it’s Arlo-specific.

Either way, this step is the heart of how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 — turning a battery-dependent device into a 24/7 security sentinel.

Step 7: Mount the Camera & Finalize the Installation

Now that power is connected, mount your Arlo camera securely.

1. Use the included mounting bracket or a third-party one.
2. Align the camera for optimal coverage (check the Arlo app for live view).
3. Secure with screws — use anchors for brick or stucco.
4. Route the power cable neatly using zip ties or conduit.
5. Seal the wall entry point with silicone to prevent water ingress.

Test the camera in the Arlo app:

• Check for stable video feed
• Verify motion detection
• Ensure night vision works
• Look for power status (should show “Plugged In” or “Solar”)

If everything works, celebrate! You’ve just completed a professional-grade installation.

Step 8: Set Up Backup Power (Optional but Smart)

Even hardwired systems can fail during power outages. Here’s how to add resilience:

• Use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) at the power source — keeps the adapter running for 1–2 hours during blackouts.
• Add a second solar panel — if using the solar bridge method, a backup panel ensures power during cloudy days.
• Enable local storage — use a microSD card (if supported) so recordings aren’t lost if the internet goes down.

I added a small UPS to my system after a storm knocked out power for 12 hours. My cameras kept rolling — and I caught a raccoon stealing my trash cans. Worth every penny.

These extras aren’t required, but they elevate your setup from “good” to “bulletproof.” A must for anyone serious about how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After installing hardwired Arlos on my own home and helping friends with theirs, I’ve learned a few lessons the hard way. Here are the ones that matter most:

• Don’t skip the multimeter test: I once connected a 9V adapter to a 12V camera. It powered on but died after a week. Always verify voltage.
• Use outdoor-rated wire and boxes: Regular indoor wire corrodes fast. I learned this after a rainy spring turned my connection into a rusty mess.
• Label everything: When you have five wires running through your attic, you’ll thank yourself for labeling them.
• Don’t over-tighten zip ties: Crushing the wire insulation can cause shorts. Snug is good; tight is bad.
• Check local codes: Some areas require permits for outdoor wiring. A quick call to your building department saves fines.
• Use a drip loop: When running wire from above (e.g., roof to wall), create a “U” shape below the entry point. This keeps water from running straight into the wall.
• Test before sealing: Once you silicone everything, it’s hard to fix a mistake. Test the camera first, then seal.

Personal Insight: I used to rush through installations to “get it done.” Now, I take my time. A clean, well-planned setup lasts years. A rushed one fails in months.

And one last thing: if you’re not comfortable with electrical work, call a licensed electrician. It’s not worth the risk. Safety first, always.

These tips aren’t just about making how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 easier — they’re about making it last.

FAQs About How to Hardwire Arlo Camera in 2026: A Complete Guide

Let’s tackle the questions I get asked most — straight and simple.

Can I hardwire any Arlo camera?

Most can, but it depends. Cameras with a DC port (like Pro 4, Ultra, Essential Wired) are easiest. Battery-only models (Go, Essential Wireless) can be hardwired using the Arlo Solar Panel as a power bridge. Older Pro 1/2 models need a battery eliminator kit.

Bottom line: yes, but the method varies. That’s why how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 isn’t one-size-fits-all.

Is hardwiring safe? Can I shock myself?

Very safe — if you follow the rules. We’re using low-voltage DC (12V–24V), which is harmless under normal conditions. No risk of electric shock like with household AC (120V).

Just avoid cutting into high-voltage wires, and never work in wet conditions. If you’re unsure, hire an electrician for the power source part.

Will hardwiring void my Arlo warranty?

No, as long as you don’t open the camera or modify the internal battery. Using the DC port or solar panel method is fully supported by Arlo. Just don’t drill holes in the camera body — that voids it.

What if my power goes out?

That’s why I recommend a UPS or solar backup. A standard hardwired setup won’t work during outages. But with a small UPS ($50–$100), your cameras stay on for 1–2 hours. Solar panels can keep them going indefinitely (if sunny).

Can I run the wire underground?

Yes — but use direct-burial-rated cable (marked “DB” or “direct burial”). Bury it 6–12 inches deep. For long runs, consider conduit (PVC pipe) to protect the wire and make future repairs easier.

How long can the wire run be before voltage drops?

For 18-gauge wire: up to 50 feet for 12V, 100 feet for 24V. For longer runs, use 16-gauge wire or step up to 24V. Voltage drop causes dim lights and camera instability — so plan accordingly.

Can I use landscape lighting wire?

Yes — if it’s 18-gauge or larger and rated for outdoor use. Many 12V landscape systems use the same wire. Just make sure the transformer can handle the extra load (1A minimum).

Final Thoughts

Learning how to hardwire Arlo camera in 2026 isn’t just about convenience — it’s about building a smarter, more reliable security system. No more dead batteries. No more missed alerts. Just 24/7 protection, rain or shine.

You don’t need to be an electrician. You just need patience, the right tools, and this guide. Take your time. Test as you go. And don’t be afraid to ask for help when needed.

My first hardwired Arlo took me six hours. My fifth took two. The more you do it, the easier it gets. And once it’s done? You’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner.

So grab your drill, your wire, and your multimeter. Your home — and your peace of mind — will thank you. Now go make your Arlo unstoppable.