Hardwiring Arlo cameras in 2026 ensures uninterrupted power and superior reliability compared to battery-dependent setups. This guide walks you through selecting compatible Arlo models, using weatherproof conduit and outdoor-rated cables, and safely connecting to your home’s electrical system for a clean, permanent installation. With step-by-step instructions and essential safety tips, you’ll enhance camera performance, eliminate battery changes, and boost security coverage year-round.

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How to Hardwire Arlo Cameras in 2026: A Complete Guide

Key Takeaways

• Plan camera locations first: Ensure optimal coverage and power source proximity.
• Use weatherproof cables: Protect outdoor wiring from moisture and damage.
• Connect to a 16-24V AC transformer: Match Arlo’s power requirements for stable performance.
• Secure connections with conduit: Prevent tampering and extend cable lifespan.
• Test before finalizing: Confirm camera functionality and feed stability post-install.
• Label all wiring: Simplify future troubleshooting and maintenance.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be honest—relying solely on batteries for your Arlo cameras is like driving a sports car with a gas tank that runs out every few days. It’s inconvenient, frustrating, and honestly, kind of defeats the purpose of having a security system that’s always on. If you’re tired of constant battery changes, missed alerts, or cameras going dark during a storm, you’re not alone.

I’ve been there. My backyard Arlo Pro 5 went offline during a thunderstorm last summer because the battery died mid-event. That’s when I decided to finally learn how to hardwire Arlo cameras in 2026—and it’s been a game-changer. No more battery anxiety. No more missed recordings. Just peace of mind.

Hardwiring gives you continuous power, eliminates maintenance, and ensures your cameras are always ready. Whether you’re upgrading an existing system or installing new cameras, this guide walks you through the process step by step. And don’t worry—no electrician license required.

What You Need

Before we dive in, let’s gather your toolkit. The good news? Most of this is stuff you might already have around the house or can pick up at any hardware store.

• Arlo camera models that support hardwiring (e.g., Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Pro 5, Ultra 2, Ultra 2 XL, and newer models)
• Arlo Power Adapter (AC/DC) – This is essential. It converts household voltage (120V) to the low-voltage DC power your camera needs (typically 12V or 24V)
• Low-voltage wire (18-24 gauge) – Use outdoor-rated, weatherproof cable if running outside
• Drill and drill bits – For making small holes in walls, soffits, or siding
• Fish tape or flexible rod – To guide wires through tight spaces
• Wire strippers and crimping tool – For clean connections
• Weatherproof junction box or conduit (optional but recommended) – For outdoor connections
• Silicone sealant or caulk – To seal holes and prevent water damage
• Zip ties or clips – To secure wires neatly
• Voltage tester (non-contact) – Safety first!

Pro tip: Always check your Arlo model’s specs. Not all Arlo cameras support hardwiring. For example, the original Arlo or Arlo Go don’t have this feature. But most Pro and Ultra series models from 2020 onward do—especially when you follow how to hardwire Arlo cameras in 2026 a complete guide like this one.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Hardwire Arlo Cameras in 2026 A Complete Guide

Step 1: Choose Your Power Source Location

Start by deciding where you’ll plug in the power adapter. You want a nearby indoor outlet—ideally within 20–30 feet of the camera, depending on wire length.

Think: garage, basement, attic, or even an outdoor GFCI-protected outlet (if code-compliant). Avoid extension cords. They’re not only unsafe but can cause voltage drop, leading to camera instability.

For example, I used an outlet in my laundry room that was only 15 feet from the front porch camera. That gave me plenty of wire slack without needing splices.

Warning: Never use a standard extension cord outdoors. It’s a fire hazard. Only use outdoor-rated, weatherproof extension cords if absolutely necessary—and even then, keep them under 25 feet.

Step 2: Plan Your Wire Path

Now, map out how the wire will travel from the outlet to the camera. This is where most people get stuck—but it’s easier than it sounds.

• From the outlet, run the wire along baseboards, up walls, or through attic/crawl spaces.
• For exterior runs, go under eaves, through soffits, or along downspouts.
• Avoid sharp bends, high-traffic areas, and places where the wire could be damaged (like under gutters or near lawnmowers).

I used my attic to run the wire from the laundry room to the front porch. It was clean, protected, and out of sight. If you have a two-story house, consider going up through the wall cavity or using a closet chase.

Measure the distance and add 3–5 feet of extra wire for slack. Trust me, you’ll thank yourself later when you don’t have to splice.

Pro tip: Use a flashlight and mirror to peek behind walls or under eaves. You’d be surprised how many hidden pathways exist in older homes.

Step 3: Drill Access Holes

Time to make some holes—but don’t panic. You only need two small ones: one at the power source (near the outlet) and one at the camera location.

Use a 1/4-inch drill bit. Drill from the inside out to avoid damaging siding or shingles. For exterior walls, aim slightly downward so water doesn’t pool in the hole.

At the camera end, drill into the soffit or siding where the camera will sit. Make sure it’s close enough to the mounting point but not in the way of the camera’s field of view.

Seal each hole with silicone caulk after running the wire. This keeps bugs, water, and cold air out. I use clear silicone so it blends in.

Step 4: Run the Low-Voltage Wire

Now comes the fun part: fishing the wire through.

• Attach the wire to a fish tape or flexible rod.
• Start from the camera hole and push the wire toward the outlet.
• If using an attic, feed the wire down through the wall cavity.
• For soffit runs, gently guide it along the edge and into the hole.

I used a glow rod (a flexible, light-up rod) for attic runs—it made seeing the path so much easier. If you don’t have one, a flashlight and patience work too.

Leave 6–8 inches of wire sticking out at both ends. This gives you room to strip, connect, and test.

Warning: Don’t run low-voltage wire parallel to high-voltage lines (like power cables). Cross them at 90-degree angles if needed. Running them close can cause interference or even damage your camera.

Step 5: Connect the Arlo Power Adapter

Now, let’s wire the adapter. This is the heart of how to hardwire Arlo cameras in 2026 a complete guide.

1. Unplug the adapter from the outlet.
2. Locate the two screw terminals on the adapter (usually labeled + and –).
3. Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of the low-voltage wire.
4. Twist the exposed copper strands tightly.
5. Attach the positive (usually red or white) wire to the + terminal.
6. Attach the negative (usually black or green) wire to the – terminal.
7. Tighten the screws securely.

Double-check your connections. Reversing polarity won’t fry the camera, but it won’t power on either.

Plug the adapter into the outlet. Use a voltage tester to confirm it’s receiving power. You should see 12V or 24V (check your adapter specs).

Step 6: Connect the Camera End

Now, go to the camera location. Strip the other end of the wire and connect it to the Arlo camera’s power input.

• On most Arlo cameras, there’s a small DC barrel jack on the back or bottom.
• Use a compatible DC plug (usually included with the adapter or camera).
• Or, if you’re using a hardwire kit with screw terminals, connect the wires directly.

I prefer using the DC plug—it’s plug-and-play, removable, and looks cleaner. But if you’re doing a permanent install, screw terminals work great.

Once connected, power up the camera. It should boot up within 30–60 seconds. You’ll see the status light turn solid or blink blue.

Pro tip: If the camera doesn’t power on, unplug everything, check polarity, and test the voltage at the camera end. A voltage drop over long runs can cause issues. Use thicker wire (18-gauge) for runs over 25 feet.

Step 7: Secure and Seal Everything

You’re almost done! Now, make it neat and weatherproof.

• Use zip ties to secure the wire every 12–18 inches.
• Hide wires behind trim, gutters, or downspouts.
• At the camera end, seal the hole with silicone caulk.
• For outdoor connections, use a weatherproof junction box or conduit if exposed.

I used small plastic clips to run the wire along my gutter—it’s invisible from the ground. And I sealed the hole with clear silicone so it blends into the white siding.

Inside, I tucked the adapter behind a laundry room shelf. No clutter, no tripping hazard.

Step 8: Test and Configure in the App

Open the Arlo app. Your camera should appear as “Online” with a solid power icon (usually a lightning bolt).

• Check the battery level—it should show “Charging” or “Full” even though there’s no battery.
• Test motion detection and recording.
• Adjust settings like night vision, activity zones, and notifications.

Bonus: With continuous power, you can enable 24/7 recording (if you have an Arlo Secure subscription). That’s huge for catching every detail.

I set mine to record continuously during nighttime hours. It’s like having a security guard with perfect memory.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After hardwiring three Arlo cameras (and making every mistake in the book), here’s what I wish I knew:

• Use the right gauge wire: For runs under 20 feet, 22-gauge is fine. Over 25 feet? Go with 18-gauge to prevent voltage drop. I learned this the hard way when my backyard camera flickered in cold weather.
• Label your wires: If you’re doing multiple cameras, label each wire with tape. “Front Porch – +” saves so much time later.
• Don’t over-tighten screws: Loose connections cause intermittent power. Over-tightening can strip the terminals. Snug is perfect.
• Check local codes: In some areas, outdoor wiring requires conduit or permits. When in doubt, consult an electrician.
• Use a surge protector: Power surges from lightning or grid issues can fry your adapter. I use a simple indoor surge protector for the adapter.
• Test before finalizing: Don’t caulk the holes until you’ve tested the camera for 24 hours. You don’t want to drill again if something’s wrong.

Warning: Never cut the Arlo camera’s original power cable. It’s designed for low voltage, and modifying it voids the warranty. Always use the adapter and external wire.

One last thing: if you’re not comfortable drilling or running wires, consider hiring a handyman. Most can do a single camera in under an hour. It’s worth the $100 to avoid a costly mistake.

FAQs About How to Hardwire Arlo Cameras in 2026 A Complete Guide

Q: Can I hardwire any Arlo camera?
A: No. Only models with a DC power input work. That includes Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Pro 5, Ultra 2, Ultra 2 XL, and newer Pro series. The original Arlo, Arlo Go, and Arlo Essential don’t support hardwiring. Always check your model’s specs before starting.

Q: Do I still need batteries?
A: Technically, no. But I recommend keeping a charged battery in the camera as a backup. If your power goes out, the camera stays on. It’s like a built-in UPS. I keep mine at 80% to prolong battery life.

Q: Can I use solar panels instead?
A: Yes! Arlo’s solar panels are designed for continuous power. They’re easier to install than hardwiring—just mount the panel and plug it in. But in winter or shaded areas, solar isn’t always reliable. Hardwiring is more consistent, which is why it’s the focus of how to hardwire Arlo cameras in 2026 a complete guide.

Q: What if my outlet is too far away?
A: You have options. Use a longer wire (up to 50 feet with 18-gauge), install a new outdoor GFCI outlet (hire an electrician), or use a power-over-ethernet (PoE) adapter if your camera supports it. Some newer Arlo models work with PoE, which is even cleaner than hardwiring.

Q: Is it safe to run wires through walls?
A: Absolutely—as long as you follow basic electrical safety. Use low-voltage wire, avoid high-voltage lines, and seal all holes. Low-voltage DC power (12V/24V) is much safer than household AC. But if you’re unsure, consult a pro.

Q: Can I hardwire multiple cameras to one adapter?
A: Only if the adapter has multiple outputs and enough amperage. Most single adapters can’t power more than one camera. Use a multi-port adapter or run separate wires. I use one adapter per camera for reliability.

Q: Will hardwiring affect my Wi-Fi signal?
A: No. Hardwiring only provides power. Your camera still connects to Wi-Fi for data. In fact, stable power can improve performance by reducing reboots and signal drops.

Final Thoughts

Hardwiring your Arlo cameras isn’t just about convenience—it’s about reliability. After switching, I haven’t missed a single package delivery, suspicious visitor, or neighborhood raccoon raid. My cameras are always on, always recording, and always ready.

You don’t need to be an electrician to do this. With the right tools and a little patience, anyone can follow how to hardwire Arlo cameras in 2026 a complete guide and enjoy a truly set-and-forget security system.

Start small—do one camera first. Test it. Get comfortable. Then expand to others. And remember: take your time, double-check connections, and seal those holes.

Your future self (and your home’s safety) will thank you. Now go get that peace of mind—no more battery anxiety, just 24/7 protection.

You’ve got this.

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