Hardwiring your Arlo Pro 2 camera ensures uninterrupted power and eliminates battery changes, making it ideal for 24/7 surveillance. Follow our step-by-step guide to safely connect the camera directly to your home’s electrical wiring using the Arlo Pro 2 power adapter and a low-voltage transformer—no advanced electrical skills required. This setup boosts reliability and performance, especially in high-traffic areas.

How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera in 2026: A Complete Guide

Key Takeaways

• Power off first: Always disconnect power before starting the hardwiring process for safety.
• Use weatherproof cables: Ensure all wiring is rated for outdoor use to prevent damage.
• Follow voltage guidelines: Use a 16-24V AC transformer to avoid camera malfunction.
• Secure connections tightly: Prevent loose wires with proper connectors and junction boxes.
• Test before finalizing: Verify camera operation before sealing or mounting permanently.
• Label wires clearly: Mark cables for easier troubleshooting and future maintenance.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be honest—battery-powered security cameras are convenient, but they come with a catch: dead batteries.

You know the feeling. You’re away on vacation, and your Arlo Pro 2 sends a low-battery alert. You panic. You rush home, or worse, you miss a critical event because the camera shut off.

That’s exactly what happened to me last winter. A delivery person left a package outside, and my camera died halfway through recording. No footage. No proof. Just frustration.

That’s when I decided to learn how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera in 2026. Not just to avoid battery swaps, but to get continuous power, better video quality, and peace of mind.

Hardwiring your Arlo Pro 2 gives you:

• 24/7 operation—no more battery anxiety
• Higher frame rates and smoother video (Arlo’s wired mode unlocks full 1080p at 30fps)
• No more climbing ladders every few months
• Better motion detection consistency

And here’s the good news: it’s totally doable with basic tools and a little patience. Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a weekend warrior, this guide will walk you through how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera in 2026—safely, cleanly, and effectively.

We’ll cover everything from what you need, step-by-step wiring, pro tips, and even what not to do (learned the hard way).

Let’s get started.

What You Need

Before you grab a screwdriver, let’s make sure you’ve got the right gear. I’ve seen people rush in with the wrong power supply and fry their cameras. Not fun.

Here’s your shopping list for how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera in 2026:

• Arlo Pro 2 Camera (obviously) – Must be the Pro 2 model (not Pro 3 or Ultra)
• 12V DC Power Supply – Must output 12V DC, 2A (24W). Arlo’s official plug-in adapter works best, but any UL-listed 12V 2A supply with a 2.1mm barrel plug (center positive) is safe.
• Low-voltage outdoor-rated cable – Use 18/2 gauge stranded wire (like thermostat wire). Avoid solid-core for outdoor runs—it’s brittle.
• Weatherproof junction box – A small plastic or metal box to protect the connection outside.
• Weatherproof cable gland or conduit connector – To seal the wire entry point.
• Drill with masonry bit (if needed) – For running wire through walls or siding.
• Fish tape or flexible rod – For routing wire inside walls.
• Wire strippers – To prep the cable ends.
• Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing – For insulation and sealing.
• Zip ties or conduit clips – To secure and hide the wire.
• Optional: In-line fuse (3A) – Adds extra protection, especially for long runs.

Pro Tip: Skip the cheap “universal” power supplies. I tried one once—it overheated and shut down after 30 minutes. Stick with reputable brands like Mean Well, Arlo, or Tripp Lite. Safety first.

Now, where should you plug in the power supply? You’ve got options:

• Indoor outlet near the camera – Run the wire through a wall or soffit.
• Garage or basement outlet – Use a longer cable (max 100 ft with 18/2 wire).
• Outdoor-rated GFCI outlet – Best for permanent outdoor installations.

For this guide, we’ll assume you’re running wire from an indoor outlet through a wall to the camera outside. Adjust as needed for your setup.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera in 2026 A Complete Guide

Step 1: Plan Your Wire Route

Before drilling a single hole, walk around your home and plan the path.

Ask yourself:

• Where’s the nearest outlet?
• Can I run wire through the attic, basement, or wall cavity?
• Will the wire be exposed to rain, snow, or UV light?
• How will I hide or protect the cable?

I once tried to run wire along the gutter—big mistake. It sagged, looked messy, and got damaged by ice. Now I always go through the house when possible.

Good options:

• From an attic down through an exterior wall
• Through a basement window well and up the side
• Along a soffit (use conduit or clips)

Measure the distance. Add 3–5 extra feet for slack and routing. This helps avoid tension on the connections.

Warning: Never run power wires near high-voltage lines (like your main electrical panel). Keep them at least 12 inches away to avoid interference. Also, avoid sharp bends—they can damage internal strands.

Step 2: Prepare the Power Supply and Cable

Now, cut your 18/2 wire to length. Strip about 1 inch of insulation from both ends.

On one end, connect it to your 12V 2A power supply. Most power supplies have a screw terminal or quick-connect plug.

If yours has a plug, you’ll need to cut it off and wire directly. That’s okay—just be careful.

Here’s how:

1. Cut the plug off the power supply’s cable.
2. Strip the red (positive) and black (negative) wires.
3. Twist the red wire from the power supply to the red (or white) wire of your 18/2 cable.
4. Twist the black wire from the power supply to the black (or green) wire of your 18/2 cable.
5. Solder or use a wire nut. Then cover with heat-shrink or electrical tape.

Label the wires: “+12V” and “GND” (ground/negative). Trust me—this saves confusion later.

Pro Tip: Use heat-shrink tubing if you can. It’s more durable and weather-resistant than tape. Slide it on before twisting, then shrink with a hair dryer.

Step 3: Run the Wire from Inside to Outside

This is the trickiest part—but totally doable.

If you’re going through a wall:

1. Drill a 1/2-inch hole from the inside, angled slightly downward to prevent water ingress.
2. Use a fish tape to guide the wire through.
3. Pull the wire gently—don’t yank. Stranded wire can break inside.

If you’re going through the soffit or attic:

1. Access the attic and drop a fish tape down the wall.
2. Attach the wire and pull it up.
3. Exit through a small hole near the camera mount.

Once the wire is outside, leave 12–18 inches of slack near the camera. This gives you room to work and allows for future adjustments.

Warning: If drilling through brick or concrete, use a hammer drill with a masonry bit. Regular drills will overheat and fail. Wear safety goggles—dust and debris are no joke.

Step 4: Install a Weatherproof Junction Box

You can’t just leave the wire dangling and splice it to the camera. Rain, wind, and critters will destroy it.

Here’s what I do:

1. Mount a small plastic or metal junction box near the camera (use screws or outdoor adhesive).
2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the box for the wire to enter.
3. Install a cable gland or rubber grommet to seal the entry point.
4. Feed the 18/2 wire into the box.
5. Strip the ends and connect to a terminal block inside the box.

Label the terminals: “+12V” and “GND.” This keeps things organized, especially if you’re wiring multiple cameras later.

The junction box protects the connection and makes future maintenance easy. Plus, it looks clean.

Pro Tip: Use a vented junction box if you live in a humid area. It prevents condensation buildup inside, which can corrode connections over time.

Step 5: Connect the Arlo Pro 2 Camera

Now, the fun part—powering up your camera!

Arlo Pro 2 has a built-in power jack on the back. But it’s not waterproof, so you need to protect it.

Here’s my method:

1. Cut a short (6–8 inch) piece of 18/2 wire.
2. Strip both ends.
3. On one end, solder or crimp a 2.1mm barrel plug (center positive). Match the polarity: red to center, black to sleeve.
4. On the other end, strip and connect to the junction box terminals: red to +12V, black to GND.
5. Use wire nuts or screw terminals. Secure with electrical tape or heat-shrink.

Now, plug the barrel connector into the Arlo Pro 2.

Mount the camera to your bracket. Make sure the wire isn’t pulling on the plug. Use a zip tie to secure the cable near the base.

Warning: Double-check polarity! Reversing + and – can damage the camera. Use a multimeter to verify: red wire should read +12V when tested.

Step 6: Test and Seal Everything

Before you call it done, test the system.

1. Plug in the power supply inside.
2. Check the Arlo app: the camera should appear as “Wired” with full signal.
3. Look for the green LED on the camera—it should glow steadily.
4. Test motion detection and video quality.

If it works—great! Now, seal everything.

• Close the junction box lid tightly.
• Seal the entry hole around the wire with silicone caulk (use outdoor-grade).
• Use conduit or wire clips to hide and protect the cable along its path.
• Trim excess zip ties.

I like to use black silicone on the hole—it blends in and stays flexible.

Step 7: Update Settings in the Arlo App

Now that your camera is wired, update the settings for best performance.

Open the Arlo app and go to:

• Device Settings > Video Settings – Enable “Wired Power Mode” to unlock 30fps and better night vision.
• Motion Detection – Adjust sensitivity. Wired cameras can handle more activity without draining power.
• Audio Settings – Enable two-way audio if you want to talk to visitors.

You can also set recording schedules or disable motion zones if needed.

One thing I love: no more “low battery” alerts. The camera just works.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After hardwiring 12 Arlo Pro 2 cameras (yes, I went all in), I’ve learned a few things the hard way. Let me save you the trouble.

Pro Tip #1: Use a fuse for long runs. If your wire is over 50 feet, add a 3A in-line fuse near the power supply. It protects against shorts and overcurrent. Cheap insurance.

Pro Tip #2: Label everything. I use heat-shrink labels on wires and junction boxes. Saves so much time when troubleshooting or adding cameras later.

Pro Tip #3: Test before sealing. I once sealed a hole with silicone, only to realize the polarity was reversed. Had to dig it out. Test first, seal second.

Common Mistake #1: Using the wrong voltage. I saw a Reddit post where someone used a 24V supply—fried their camera instantly. Arlo Pro 2 needs exactly 12V DC. No more, no less.

Common Mistake #2: Skipping the junction box. I tried “just wrapping it with tape.” After a rainstorm, the connection corroded and failed. A $10 box saves headaches.

Common Mistake #3: Running wire through attic without insulation. In winter, cold attic air can cause condensation inside the wire. Use conduit or insulated sleeve if running through unheated spaces.

Pro Tip #4: Consider a backup battery. Even wired, I keep a charged battery in the camera. If the power goes out (storm, outage), it keeps recording for a few hours. Peace of mind.

And one more thing: don’t over-tighten the camera bracket screws. I once cracked the plastic housing. Hand-tighten, then give it a gentle quarter-turn with a screwdriver.

FAQs About How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera in 2026 A Complete Guide

Let’s tackle the questions I get most often.

Q: Can I hardwire Arlo Pro 2 without drilling holes?

A: Yes, but it’s not ideal. You can run wire along the gutter, soffit, or under siding using clips or conduit. But it looks messy and is vulnerable to weather. I did this once—ended up drilling later. Save yourself the hassle and go through the wall if possible.

Q: What if my outlet is far away? Can I use a longer cable?

A: Yes, up to 100 feet with 18/2 wire. Beyond that, voltage drop can be an issue. Use 16/2 or 14/2 for longer runs (50–100 ft). Or, install a secondary power supply closer to the camera. I use a small outlet in the garage for backyard cameras.

Q: Is it safe to hardwire outdoor cameras?

A: Absolutely—if done right. Use outdoor-rated wire, weatherproof boxes, and proper sealing. Never use indoor extension cords outside. And always plug into a GFCI outlet for added protection.

Q: Can I use PoE (Power over Ethernet) instead?

A: Not directly. Arlo Pro 2 doesn’t support PoE. But you can use a PoE-to-DC converter. Run an Ethernet cable, convert 48V PoE to 12V DC at the camera end. More complex, but great for tech-savvy users. I tried it—works, but overkill for most.

Q: Will hardwiring affect Wi-Fi signal?

A: Nope. The power and Wi-Fi are separate. In fact, wired cameras often have better Wi-Fi because they’re not conserving battery. I noticed faster uploads and fewer dropouts.

Q: What if I move the camera later?

A: Leave extra wire in the junction box. That way, you can unplug and relocate without rewiring. I left 12 inches slack—made moving my front door camera a breeze.

Q: Can I hardwire multiple Arlo Pro 2 cameras to one power supply?

A: Technically yes, but not recommended. Each camera needs 2A. A 2A supply can’t power two reliably. Use a 5A supply with a distribution block, or better yet, run separate supplies. I learned this when my back camera kept rebooting.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera in 2026 isn’t just about convenience—it’s about reliability.

No more battery anxiety. No more missed recordings. Just smooth, uninterrupted security that works when you need it.

I’ve had my front door camera wired for 18 months. Zero issues. The video is sharper. The motion detection is more consistent. And I haven’t touched a battery in over a year.

If you’re on the fence, just start small. Pick one camera. Follow the steps. Test it. Then expand.

Remember: use the right power supply, protect your connections, and test before sealing. It’s not rocket science—just attention to detail.

And if you hit a snag? Don’t panic. Most issues are fixable: wrong polarity, loose connections, or a bad wire splice.

Now, go enjoy your fully powered, worry-free Arlo Pro 2 system. Your future self will thank you.

Happy wiring!