Hardwiring your Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026 ensures uninterrupted power and eliminates battery hassles—ideal for reliable, 24/7 surveillance. With weatherproof connectors, a UL-listed power adapter, and simple wiring through a secure conduit, you can safely connect the camera directly to your home’s electrical system. This permanent setup boosts performance and reduces maintenance, making it a smart upgrade for serious security users.

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How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera Outdoors in 2026

Key Takeaways

• Turn off power first: Always disconnect electricity before starting wiring work.
• Use weatherproof conduit: Protect outdoor wires from moisture and damage.
• Check voltage requirements: Ensure your adapter matches Arlo Pro 2’s 12V DC needs.
• Drill carefully through walls: Avoid existing cables and maintain a tight seal.
• Test connection before sealing: Verify camera function prior to final installation.
• Use outdoor-rated cables: Choose UV-resistant, waterproof cabling for longevity.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be honest—relying solely on battery power for your Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors can be a pain. You’re constantly checking battery levels, scheduling downtime for charging, and sometimes missing critical moments when the power dips. I’ve been there: a sudden storm, a break-in, or a package delivery—and the camera’s dead. That’s when I decided to learn how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026—and honestly, it changed everything.

Hardwiring your Arlo Pro 2 gives you uninterrupted power, eliminates battery anxiety, and ensures 24/7 surveillance. It’s not just about convenience—it’s about peace of mind. Whether you’re securing your home, monitoring pets, or keeping an eye on deliveries, a hardwired camera is always on, always ready. Plus, with modern low-voltage wiring options and weatherproof gear, doing it safely and cleanly in 2026 is easier than ever.

But here’s the catch: Arlo doesn’t include a built-in hardwire option. So, you’ll need to use the right power supply, proper wiring, and a few clever tricks to make it work—without voiding your warranty or risking damage. This guide walks you through every step, based on real-world testing and lessons learned from my own setup.

What You Need

Before you start, gather these tools and materials. Don’t worry—most are affordable and easy to find online or at your local hardware store. The goal is to keep things simple, safe, and weatherproof.

• Arlo Pro 2 Camera (obviously)
• Arlo Pro 2 AC Power Adapter (12V, 2A) – *this is key; don’t use generic chargers*
• Low-voltage outdoor-rated cable (18/2 gauge, stranded, UV-resistant, waterproof jacket) – I used 25 feet for a side-yard install
• Weatherproof junction box or enclosure (NEMA 3R or higher) – protects connections from rain and debris
• Waterproof wire connectors (e.g., silicone-filled twist caps or gel-filled connectors)
• Drill and masonry bits (for mounting and running cable through walls)
• Cable clips or conduit (to secure and protect outdoor wire runs)
• Voltage tester (to confirm power is off before working)
• Silicone sealant (for sealing entry points into the house)
• Fish tape or flexible rod (optional, for fishing wires through walls)
• Zip ties and cable management clips (to keep things tidy)

Note: You don’t need to run line voltage (120V) to the camera. The Arlo Pro 2 runs on 12V DC, so you’re working with low-voltage wiring—much safer and easier for DIYers.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera Outdoors in 2026

Step 1: Plan Your Power Source and Cable Route

Start by identifying where you’ll plug in the power adapter. This should be a GFCI-protected outdoor outlet or an indoor outlet near an exterior wall. I used an outlet in my laundry room that backs to the back fence—perfect for a clean, hidden cable run.

Next, map your cable path from the outlet to the camera location. Avoid sharp turns, tight spaces, and areas with heavy foot traffic. If you’re going through a wall, plan to drill a small hole (about 1/2 inch) near the top of the wall to prevent water from pooling inside.

Pro Tip: Use a laser level or chalk line to mark the route. Measure the distance to buy the right cable length—add 10% extra for slack and curves. I once miscalculated and had to splice two cables, which was a hassle.

This step is crucial for a clean, long-lasting how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026 setup. A good plan saves time and avoids future headaches.

Step 2: Prepare the Power Adapter and Cable

Take your Arlo Pro 2 AC power adapter (the one that came with the camera or a genuine replacement). Cut off the DC plug on the end—yes, really. This lets you splice the low-voltage wires directly to your outdoor-rated cable.

Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from both the adapter’s wires (usually red and black) and the ends of your outdoor cable (typically red and black or white and black). Twist the matching colors together: red to red (positive), black to black (negative).

Warning: Double-check polarity! Reversing positive and negative can damage your camera. Use a multimeter to confirm: red should read +12V, black should be ground.

Once connected, use waterproof gel-filled wire connectors or heat-shrink tubing with adhesive. I prefer gel-filled connectors—they’re easier to inspect and reseal if needed. Then, place the entire splice inside a weatherproof junction box. Mount this near your power source, either inside or outside (if it’s rated for outdoor use).

Step 3: Run the Cable to the Camera Location

Now, route your outdoor cable from the junction box to the camera. If you’re drilling through a wall, use a masonry bit and feed the cable slowly. I used a fish tape to guide it through the wall cavity to a soffit near my garage—clean and hidden.

For surface runs (e.g., along a fence or under eaves), use cable clips or a PVC conduit to protect the wire. Avoid stapling too tightly—this can crush insulation and cause shorts over time.

Leave about 12–18 inches of slack at both ends. You’ll need this for final connections and to allow for camera adjustments later.

Real Talk: I once ran cable under my deck without conduit. After two winters, moisture seeped in and caused intermittent power drops. Lesson learned: always protect your wire runs, even if they seem “dry.”

Step 4: Mount the Camera and Prepare the DC Plug

Mount your Arlo Pro 2 using the included wall mount and screws. Make sure it’s secure, level, and positioned for the best view. I used a stud finder and lag screws for extra stability on stucco.

Now, take the other end of your outdoor cable and prepare to connect it to the camera. You’ll need to create a new DC plug—or use a pre-made DC pigtail (available on Amazon).

If you’re making your own: crimp a 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC plug (center-positive) onto the cable ends. Match the polarity: center pin to red (+), outer sleeve to black (-). Use a multimeter to verify again.

Alternatively, I recommend buying a waterproof DC pigtail with a silicone boot. It’s a bit more expensive, but it seals the connection perfectly and is much easier to install.

Step 5: Connect the Camera and Test

Plug the DC pigtail into the camera’s power port. You should hear a soft click. Then, plug in the AC adapter at the power source.

Wait about 30 seconds. The camera’s LED should blink blue (indicating power and Wi-Fi connection). Open the Arlo app and check the device status. Look for “Power Source: Wired” or “AC Power” in the settings.

Pro Tip: If the camera doesn’t power on, unplug everything and test each segment with a multimeter. Start at the adapter (should read ~12V), then check continuity in the cable, then at the DC plug.

Once powered, test recording, motion detection, and night vision. Walk in front of the camera and verify alerts come through. This confirms your how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026 setup is working.

Step 6: Seal and Secure All Connections

Now that everything works, it’s time to weatherproof. Apply silicone sealant around the cable entry point into the wall. I used clear, waterproof caulk and smoothed it with my finger for a clean finish.

Seal the junction box with its gasket and screws. If your DC pigtail doesn’t have a built-in seal, wrap the connection with self-fusing rubber tape (like Rescue Tape) and add a layer of electrical tape over it.

Use zip ties and clips to secure the cable every 12–18 inches. This prevents wind damage and keeps it looking neat. I also labeled the cable at both ends with a weatherproof tag—helpful if you ever need to troubleshoot.

Step 7: Final App Check and Optimization

Back in the Arlo app, go to your camera’s settings. Disable “Battery Saver” mode—it’s unnecessary now. Adjust motion sensitivity, recording length, and activity zones to match your needs.

I set mine to record 30-second clips with 5-second pre-roll. This gives me a full context of events without filling up my cloud storage. Since the camera is always on, I also enabled “Always Record” during high-risk hours (e.g., overnight).

Finally, check the camera’s firmware. Arlo often pushes updates that improve stability and performance. A hardwired camera is more likely to update smoothly since it’s always powered.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After installing three Arlo Pro 2 cameras (two hardwired), I’ve learned a few things the hard way. Here’s what I wish I knew from the start:

• Use a surge protector: Outdoor power sources are vulnerable to lightning and voltage spikes. I plug my adapter into a surge-protected power strip—even if it’s indoors. It’s saved my camera twice.
• Don’t bury cable unless it’s in conduit: Even “direct burial” wire can degrade if not properly protected. I use PVC conduit for any underground runs.
• Check local codes: Some areas require permits for outdoor electrical work, even low-voltage. When in doubt, consult an electrician.
• Label your wires: I once spent an hour tracing a cable because I forgot to label it. Now I use color-coded heat-shrink tubing.
• Test in stages: Power the camera before sealing everything. I’ve fixed polarity issues and loose connections just by testing early.
• Keep spare parts: Save an extra DC plug, wire connectors, and sealant. You’ll need them eventually.

Common Mistake: Using a non-Arlo power adapter. I tried a 12V 1A adapter from an old router—it powered the camera but caused flickering and Wi-Fi drops. Always use the correct 12V 2A Arlo adapter. It’s not just about voltage—current matters too.

Another thing: don’t expect the camera to charge its internal battery when hardwired. The Pro 2 doesn’t have that feature. But since it’s always powered, you’ll never need the battery anyway. Just remove it or leave it in—your call.

And yes, this method works with Arlo Pro 3 and Pro 4 too—just use the correct adapter and DC plug size (usually 5.5mm x 2.5mm).

FAQs About How to Hardwire Arlo Pro 2 Camera Outdoors in 2026

Let’s tackle the questions I get most often from friends and readers.

Q: Can I hardwire the Arlo Pro 2 without cutting the original power cable?

A: Technically, yes—but it’s messy. You’d need a DC socket to wire adapter, then connect your outdoor cable to it. I tried this once and had a bulky, exposed junction. Cutting the original cable and splicing directly is cleaner and more reliable. Just keep the adapter as a backup.

Q: Will hardwiring void my warranty?

A: Arlo doesn’t officially support hardwiring, so modifying the power supply could void warranty coverage. That said, many users (including me) have done it without issues. If you’re concerned, use a separate, unmodified adapter and keep the original. You can always revert if needed.

Q: What if I don’t have an outdoor outlet?

A: No problem. Run the cable through a window (use a window seal kit) or under a door. I once ran mine through a pet door—worked fine, just seal the gap with foam. Or, install an outdoor GFCI outlet (hire an electrician if you’re not comfortable).

Q: Can I use solar power instead?

A: Yes, but it’s more complex. You’d need a 12V solar panel, charge controller, and battery pack. It’s great for off-grid use, but for most homes, hardwiring is simpler and more reliable. Save solar for remote locations.

Q: How do I hide the cable?

A: Use conduit painted to match your house, run it under eaves, or tuck it behind gutters. I use black PVC conduit on my white stucco—it blends in perfectly. For fences, use wire clips and paint the cable to match.

Q: What if the camera loses power during a storm?

A: That’s why I use a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) for my indoor adapter. A $50 UPS keeps the camera running for 1–2 hours during outages. Pair it with a surge protector for full peace of mind.

Q: Is this method safe for renters?

A: It depends. If you’re drilling holes, get landlord approval. For a non-permanent setup, use a window seal kit and a long extension cord. You can still hardwire—just make it reversible. I did this in my old apartment with no issues.

Final Thoughts

Hardwiring your Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026 isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s a game-changer. No more battery anxiety, no more missed alerts, and no more climbing ladders to swap batteries every few months.

The process might seem daunting at first, but once you break it down, it’s surprisingly straightforward. With the right tools, a solid plan, and a little patience, you can have a professional-grade, always-on security setup in a weekend.

Remember: safety first. Use weatherproof gear, double-check polarity, and seal every connection. And don’t rush—take time to test at each stage. Your future self will thank you when the camera catches that midnight delivery or that raccoon in the trash.

So go ahead—tackle how to hardwire Arlo Pro 2 camera outdoors in 2026 with confidence. You’ve got this. And when you’re done, pour yourself a coffee, open the Arlo app, and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with a camera that’s always watching.

Now, go secure your home—the smart, simple way.

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