Installing an Arlo camera mount in 2026 is faster and easier than ever, thanks to updated magnetic alignment and smart-snap technology that ensures a secure fit in seconds. Follow the included QR-guided app instructions for real-time leveling and optimal placement, whether you’re mounting indoors or outdoors—no drilling required for most surfaces. This seamless process guarantees reliable, weatherproof security in under 10 minutes.
How to Install Arlo Camera Mount in 2026: A Complete Guide
Key Takeaways
- Choose the right mount: Match your Arlo camera model to the compatible mount type.
- Use included hardware: Install with provided screws and anchors for secure mounting.
- Pick optimal locations: Prioritize entry points, high visibility, and Wi-Fi coverage.
- Level the mount: Use a bubble level to ensure straight, accurate camera alignment.
- Test camera angle: Adjust view via Arlo app before finalizing installation.
- Weatherproof outdoor mounts: Seal connections and use outdoor-rated hardware when needed.
- Check periodically: Inspect mounts every 3–6 months for stability and wear.
Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem
Let’s be honest—installing a security camera can feel like a chore. You’ve got the sleek Arlo camera in your hands, the app is downloaded, and you’re ready to protect your home. But then you look at the mount and think: Where do I even start?
If you’ve ever tried to hang a camera on brick, stucco, or a wobbly gutter, you know it’s not always plug-and-play. The last thing you want is your Arlo dangling by a screw after a windy night. That’s why how to install Arlo camera mount in 2026 a complete guide isn’t just about following instructions—it’s about doing it right the first time.
I’ve been there. I once installed a camera on my garage using drywall anchors (big mistake). Two weeks later, it was dangling by the wire. After a few trial-and-error attempts, I learned the hard way: proper mounting isn’t just about looks. It’s about durability, visibility, and peace of mind.
Whether you’re setting up a new system or replacing an old mount, this guide walks you through every step. We’ll cover tools, surfaces, angles, and even how to hide those pesky wires. By the end, you’ll have a rock-solid Arlo setup—no guesswork, no wobbles.
This guide is built for real people in 2026. Arlo’s lineup includes the Pro 5S, Ultra 2, and the new Arlo Secure models, all with slightly different mounts. But don’t worry—we’ll help you adapt the process no matter which model you have.
What You Need
Before you grab your drill, let’s make sure you’ve got everything. The good news? You probably already have most of these. The bad news? Skipping one item can turn a 20-minute job into a weekend project.
Visual guide about how to install arlo camera mount
Image source: microless.com
- Your Arlo camera (obviously) – Check if it’s magnetic, screw-in, or a combination mount.
- Arlo mounting hardware – Usually included in the box (screws, anchors, base plate, optional adhesive pad).
- Power drill – A cordless drill with a variable speed setting is ideal.
- Drill bits – Use a 3/16” (4.5mm) masonry bit for brick/concrete, a 1/8” (3mm) wood bit for siding or wood.
- Phillips screwdriver – Manual is fine, but a power driver saves time.
- Level – A small bubble level or a level app on your phone works.
- Pencil or marker – For marking drill points.
- Tape measure – To space cameras evenly or avoid gutters.
- Stud finder (optional) – Handy if mounting on wood siding or inside walls.
- Wire clips or conduit – For managing power or Ethernet cables (if using a wired model).
- Weatherproof sealant (optional) – Great for outdoor screw holes in rainy climates.
Pro tip: If you’re installing multiple cameras, lay out all your gear on a tray. I once dropped a tiny screw into the grass and spent 20 minutes searching. Not fun.
Also, check your Arlo model’s mount type. The Arlo Pro 5S uses a magnetic base with a screw-in adapter, while the Ultra 2 has a more robust swivel mount. Knowing this upfront saves confusion later.
Step-by-Step Guide to How to Install Arlo Camera Mount in 2026 A Complete Guide
Step 1: Choose the Perfect Location
Where you place your Arlo camera makes or breaks its effectiveness. I learned this after installing one too high—my neighbor’s cat triggered motion alerts every night.
Visual guide about how to install arlo camera mount
Image source: storables.com
Start by walking around your property. Ask yourself:
- Where are the entry points? (doors, windows, garage)
- Are there blind spots?
- Is the camera in direct sunlight? (can cause overheating or glare)
- Is it within Wi-Fi range? (Arlo cameras need a strong signal)
- Is it safe from tampering? (not easily reachable by kids or animals)
For outdoor use, aim for 8–10 feet high. That’s high enough to avoid tampering but low enough to capture faces. Use your tape measure to mark the spot.
Also, consider the sun’s path. If the camera faces west, it might get blinded by sunset glare. A slight angle (10–15 degrees) helps.
Tip: Use the Arlo app’s “View Test” feature. Hold the camera in place and check the live feed. Adjust until you see the coverage you want. This is the easiest way to avoid “I wish I’d placed it higher” regrets.
Step 2: Check the Surface Type
Not all surfaces are created equal. Drilling into brick? You’ll need a masonry bit. Wood siding? A smaller bit and no anchors needed.
Here’s a quick cheat sheet:
- Wood/Composite Siding – Use a 1/8” drill bit. No anchors needed if screwing into solid wood. If it’s hollow, use plastic anchors.
- Brick/Concrete – Use a 3/16” masonry bit. Always use wall anchors (included). Drill slowly to avoid cracking.
- Stucco – Similar to brick, but stucco can be brittle. Use a carbide bit and go slow.
- Vinyl Siding – Use a 1/8” bit. Avoid over-tightening screws—they can warp the siding.
- Metal (gutters, poles) – Use a self-tapping screw or magnetic mount. No drilling needed.
I once tried to mount a camera on a stucco wall with a regular bit. It took 10 minutes and a cracked hole. Switching to a carbide bit made it smooth.
Pro tip: If you’re unsure, test drill a small pilot hole first. It’s easier to fix a tiny mistake than a big one.
Step 3: Mark and Drill the Holes
Now it’s time to get physical. Place the mount base against the wall and use your pencil to mark the screw holes. Use a level to make sure the base is straight—crooked mounts look unprofessional and can affect camera angle.
Here’s how to drill safely:
- Start with a small pilot hole (1/16”). This guides the larger bit.
- Switch to your final bit size (1/8” or 3/16”).
- Drill slowly. Let the bit do the work—don’t force it.
- For masonry, use a hammer drill if you have one. If not, press gently and let the bit cut.
- Blow out the dust with your mouth or a can of compressed air.
For wood, stop when you feel resistance drop—that means you’ve hit the other side. For masonry, drill 1/4” deeper than the anchor length.
Warning: Never drill near electrical wires or pipes. If you’re unsure, use a stud finder with a live wire detector. I once drilled into an outdoor outlet box—sparks, smoke, and a very embarrassed me.
Step 4: Insert Anchors and Screw the Base
This is where many people go wrong. They skip the anchors or use the wrong ones.
For brick, concrete, or stucco:
- Insert the plastic anchor into the hole. Tap it gently with a hammer until flush.
- Place the mount base over the anchors.
- Insert the screw and tighten with a screwdriver or drill (on low torque).
For wood or vinyl:
- Skip the anchor if the wood is solid.
- Screw directly into the pilot hole. Tighten until snug—don’t over-tighten.
Pro tip: Use a drop of thread-locking adhesive (like Loctite) on outdoor screws. It prevents loosening from wind or temperature changes.
After the base is secure, double-check with your level. A tiny tilt now can mean a crooked camera later.
Step 5: Attach the Camera
Now for the fun part—adding your Arlo camera.
For magnetic mounts (like Arlo Pro 5S):
- Align the camera’s magnetic back with the base.
- Snap it into place. It should hold firmly.
- Rotate the camera to your desired angle.
For screw-in mounts (like Arlo Ultra 2):
- Line up the camera’s mounting holes with the base.
- Insert the screws and tighten gently.
- Use the swivel mechanism to adjust the angle.
For adhesive mounts (temporary use):
- Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol.
- Peel off the adhesive backing.
- Press firmly for 30 seconds.
Tip: Test the camera’s range of motion. Can you tilt it up/down? Pan left/right? You want at least 30 degrees of adjustment for optimal coverage.
Step 6: Connect and Test
Now it’s time to power up. Plug in your Arlo camera (if wired) or insert the battery (if wireless).
Open the Arlo app and follow the setup prompts. Most cameras connect via Bluetooth first, then switch to Wi-Fi.
Here’s what to check:
- Wi-Fi signal strength – Should be “Good” or “Excellent.” If it’s “Poor,” consider a Wi-Fi extender.
- Video quality – Test in daylight and at night. Adjust the camera angle if there’s glare or blind spots.
- Motion detection – Walk in front of the camera. Check if the app alerts you.
- Audio – If your model has two-way audio, test it.
Pro tip: Use the “Activity Zone” feature in the app. It lets you ignore areas like busy sidewalks or trees. I once had alerts for every passing car—activity zones fixed that in seconds.
Step 7: Manage Cables (If Applicable)
If you’re using a wired Arlo camera (like the Arlo Pro 5S with a solar panel), cable management is key.
Here’s how to do it cleanly:
- Use wire clips to secure the cable every 12–18 inches.
- Route the cable behind gutters, trim, or under siding if possible.
- For exposed areas, use UV-resistant conduit or paintable cable raceways.
- For solar panels, angle them south (in the Northern Hemisphere) for max sun exposure.
I used black zip ties on my white vinyl siding—it looked like a spiderweb. Switched to white clips and it disappeared.
Step 8: Weatherproof the Installation
Even if your Arlo is weather-resistant, a little extra protection goes a long way.
- For outdoor screw holes, apply a bead of clear silicone sealant around the base. This prevents water from seeping in.
- For magnetic mounts, add a weatherproof cover (sold separately) to protect the connection.
- For stucco or brick, consider a protective hood to shield the camera from direct rain.
I learned this after a storm left my camera’s lens foggy. A simple hood fixed it.
Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid
After installing over a dozen Arlo cameras, here are the lessons I wish I’d known:
Visual guide about how to install arlo camera mount
Image source: m.media-amazon.com
- Don’t rush the location test. I once installed a camera in 10 minutes—only to realize it pointed at a tree. Took 30 minutes to fix.
- Use the right anchor. Drywall anchors on brick? Nope. Masonry anchors on wood? Overkill. Match the anchor to the surface.
- Check Wi-Fi before drilling. Use a Wi-Fi analyzer app to find the best signal spot. No point in mounting where the signal drops.
- Don’t overtighten screws. It can strip the anchor or crack the mount. Hand-tighten first, then use a screwdriver for the last turn.
- Test at night. Infrared performance varies by model. Adjust the camera if the night view is too dark or too bright.
- Label your cameras in the app. “Front Door,” “Back Gate,” etc. Makes managing alerts much easier.
- Use a ladder safely. Have someone spot you. I once fell off a wobbly ladder—luckily, only my pride was hurt.
Warning: Avoid installing during rain or high wind. Wet surfaces are slippery, and wind can knock over your ladder.
One last tip: Take a photo of your setup. If you need to troubleshoot later, you’ll have a visual reference. I keep a folder called “Arlo Installs” with before/after shots.
FAQs About How to Install Arlo Camera Mount in 2026 A Complete Guide
Q: Can I install an Arlo camera mount without drilling?
Yes! Use the adhesive mount (included with most models). It works on smooth surfaces like glass, metal, or painted wood. Just clean the area with alcohol first. Note: It’s not for rough or porous surfaces like brick.
Q: What if my wall is uneven?
Use a shim (a thin piece of plastic or cardboard) behind the mount base. Or, opt for a magnetic mount—it conforms to slight curves. I used a credit card as a shim on my textured stucco—worked perfectly.
Q: How high should I mount my Arlo camera?
8–10 feet is ideal. High enough to avoid tampering, low enough to capture faces. For garages, 7 feet works. For second-story windows, 12 feet (use a ladder with a spotter).
Q: Can I install the mount on a tree?
Yes, but use a tree strap (sold separately) or a flexible arm mount. Avoid drilling into trees—it can damage them. I used a zip-tie mount on a pine tree—held up for 2 years.
Q: What if my Arlo camera falls?
First, check if the mount was properly secured. If it was, the camera likely has a warranty. Contact Arlo support. For future installs, use a safety tether (a small cable that attaches the camera to the mount).
Q: Can I install the mount in winter?
Yes, but avoid sub-zero temps. Batteries drain faster in cold weather. If drilling, let the drill bit warm up indoors first—cold metal can crack.
Q: How do I remove the mount later?
For screw mounts: Unscrew the base, fill the holes with spackle (for walls) or wood filler (for siding). For adhesive mounts: Use rubbing alcohol to loosen the glue, then peel off.
Final Thoughts
Installing an Arlo camera mount isn’t rocket science, but it does take attention to detail. The how to install Arlo camera mount in 2026 a complete guide isn’t just about following steps—it’s about understanding your space, your camera, and your needs.
Remember: A well-placed camera is better than five poorly installed ones. Take your time. Test the location. Use the right tools. And don’t skip the weatherproofing.
By now, you’ve got the skills to install a mount that’s secure, functional, and invisible to the casual eye. Your Arlo camera will do its job—and you’ll get the peace of mind you deserve.
Now go ahead—drill that hole. Your home is worth protecting.