Mounting your Arlo camera to a wall in 2026 is faster and more secure than ever with updated magnetic mounts and smart alignment tools. Ensure a stable, weatherproof installation by using the included screws and anchors, and always position the camera at a 7–10 foot height for optimal coverage and minimal tampering. For seamless setup, pair with the Arlo app to test viewing angles before finalizing placement.

How to Mount Arlo Camera to Wall in 2026 Expert Tips

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right spot: Ensure clear visibility and Wi-Fi coverage before mounting.
• Use included hardware: Always install with the provided screws and wall anchors.
• Check camera angle: Test view via app before finalizing the mount position.
• Weatherproof the setup: Seal gaps and use a weather-resistant cover for outdoor mounts.
• Secure cables neatly: Prevent damage with clips or conduit for a clean, safe install.
• Recheck alignment: Adjust camera angle post-mount to capture optimal footage.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be real—security cameras only work if they’re in the right spot. I learned this the hard way when I installed my first Arlo camera. I thought I had it all figured out, but after a week, I noticed blind spots where my neighbor’s dog had chewed through my package. Not cool.

That’s when I realized: how to mount Arlo camera to wall in 2026 expert tips isn’t just about sticking a camera on a surface. It’s about strategic placement, secure installation, and long-term reliability. Whether you’re protecting your front porch, backyard, or garage, the right mounting method keeps your camera safe from weather, tampering, and even curious raccoons.

Over the years, I’ve mounted Arlo cameras on stucco, brick, wood siding, and even vinyl. Each surface has its quirks. And with newer models like the Arlo Ultra 2 and Arlo Pro 5S hitting the market in 2026, the mounting process has evolved—but the fundamentals remain the same.

The goal? A camera that stays put, captures clear footage, and doesn’t fall after a heavy rain or a curious squirrel. That’s what we’re aiming for here.

What You Need

Before you grab your drill, let’s make sure you’ve got everything. No one wants to be halfway through installation only to realize they’re missing a key part. Trust me, I’ve been there.

• Arlo camera and mount (usually included in the box—double-check!)
• Screwdriver or power drill (a cordless drill with a Phillips bit works best)
• Wall anchors and screws (Arlo kits include basic ones, but you may need heavy-duty for brick or stucco)
• Drill bits (use masonry bits for brick/concrete, wood bits for siding, and plastic anchors for drywall)
• Pencil (for marking drill points)
• Level (a $5 tool that saves you from crooked footage)
• Measuring tape (to space cameras evenly or align with doorways)
• Optional: Silicone sealant (for outdoor mounts to prevent water damage)
• Optional: Stud finder (if mounting on wood framing)

Pro tip: If you’re mounting on stucco or brick, get masonry anchors (like Tapcon screws). Regular drywall anchors won’t cut it. I once used drywall anchors on stucco—camera came down in a week. Lesson learned.

Also, make sure your camera is charged or plugged in before you start. You don’t want to finish mounting only to realize it’s dead.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Mount Arlo Camera to Wall in 2026 Expert Tips

Step 1: Choose the Right Location

Not every wall is a good wall. You want a spot that gives you maximum coverage with minimal blind spots. Think like a burglar (but in a good way). What angles would they use to sneak in?

Here’s what to look for:

• Height: 7–9 feet is ideal. Too low, and it’s vulnerable to tampering. Too high, and faces get blurry.
• Field of view: Aim for entry points—doors, windows, driveways. Avoid pointing directly at the sun (glare ruins night vision).
• Wi-Fi signal: Arlo cameras rely on strong Wi-Fi. Test signal strength with your phone before drilling. I once mounted a camera in a back corner and it kept disconnecting—had to move it closer to the router.
• Power access: If you’re using a wired Arlo (like the Arlo Essential Wired), make sure you can run the cable safely.

For wireless models, consider solar panel compatibility—Arlo’s 2026 models support solar charging. Mount the panel nearby if you want to avoid battery swaps.

Use the Arlo app to test camera angles virtually. Just set the camera on a ladder or chair and check the live feed. Adjust until you’ve got the sweet spot.

Step 2: Prepare the Mounting Surface

This step is often skipped, but it’s crucial—especially for outdoor walls. A clean, dry surface ensures your mount sticks and lasts.

Here’s how:

• Clean the area: Wipe away dirt, grease, or old adhesive. A damp cloth works fine. Let it dry completely.
• Check for damage: Cracks in stucco? Soft spots in wood? Fix them first. A loose wall = a loose camera.
• Mark the spots: Hold the mount up (without the camera) and use a pencil to mark the screw holes. Use a level to keep it straight.

For stucco or brick, I like to lightly tap the pencil mark with a nail to create a starter hole. It helps the drill bit grip and prevents wandering.

If you’re on drywall and not hitting a stud, use toggle bolts or snap-toggle anchors. They hold better than plastic anchors. I learned this after my garage camera fell during a storm.

Step 3: Drill Pilot Holes

Never skip pilot holes. They guide the screws and prevent splitting (especially on wood) or cracking (on stucco).

• Select the right bit: Match it to your wall type and anchor size.
• Drill slowly: Use low speed and steady pressure. For masonry, go slow and clear dust with a blow or vacuum.
• Depth: Drill just deep enough for the anchor. Don’t go too deep—you don’t want to hit pipes or wires.

Pro tip: If you’re on brick, drill into the mortar, not the brick. Mortar is softer and less likely to crack. I’ve seen people crack bricks trying to drill directly—don’t be that person.

For stucco, go through the stucco layer, then into the underlying wood or lath. Use a 1/4-inch masonry bit for Tapcon screws.

Step 4: Insert Anchors and Screws

Now it’s time to secure the anchors. This step varies by wall type, so let’s break it down.

• Drywall: Push plastic anchors into the holes until flush. Then, drive the screws in with a screwdriver or drill.
• Stucco/Brick: Tapcon screws go directly into the pilot holes. Use a drill with a clutch set to “medium” to avoid over-tightening.
• Wood siding: No anchors needed if you’re hitting a stud. Just screw in the mount.

Don’t overtighten! Snug is enough. Overtightening can strip the anchor or crack the wall. I’ve made this mistake—once stripped a plastic anchor so badly I had to drill a new hole.

For extra weatherproofing, dab a tiny amount of clear silicone sealant around the screw heads (not the threads). This prevents water from seeping in and causing rot or mold.

Step 5: Attach the Mount to the Wall

Once the screws are in, it’s time to mount the bracket. This is the part that holds your camera.

• Align the mount with the screws.
• Hand-tighten the screws first, then use a screwdriver or drill (on low torque) to secure.
• Double-check with the level—make sure it’s perfectly straight.

Some Arlo mounts have a ball-and-socket design. Loosen the knob slightly so you can adjust the angle later. But don’t leave it too loose—it should hold its position.

If you’re using a magnetic mount (like the Arlo Outdoor Magnetic Mount), make sure the metal plate is securely attached first. The magnet is strong, but it’s not magic. It needs a solid base.

Step 6: Attach the Camera to the Mount

Now for the fun part—putting the camera on the mount.

• For standard mounts: Slide the camera into the bracket until it clicks. Some models have a locking mechanism—engage it.
• For magnetic mounts: Align the camera with the metal plate and let the magnet snap it into place.

Test the fit. Wiggle the camera gently. It should stay put. If it wobbles, tighten the mount screws or reposition the anchor.

Pro tip: If you’re using a Pro 5S or Ultra 2, the camera is heavier. Make sure your mount can handle the weight. Arlo’s official mounts are rated for these models, but third-party ones might not be.

Step 7: Adjust the Camera Angle and Test

Don’t skip this step! Even a perfectly mounted camera is useless if it’s pointing at the roof.

• Open the Arlo app and start a live view.
• Adjust the camera angle by loosening the mount knob and repositioning.
• Look for blind spots—use a chair or ladder to simulate a person’s height.

I like to test at night too. Check if the night vision covers the area and if there’s any glare from streetlights or porch lights.

If you’re using a wireless camera, test the battery life and Wi-Fi signal. If it drops, consider adding a Wi-Fi extender or moving the camera closer to the router.

For solar-powered setups, make sure the panel gets 6+ hours of direct sunlight. I once mounted a solar panel under an eave—it only charged half the time.

Step 8: Secure Cables (If Applicable)

Wired Arlo cameras (like the Arlo Essential Wired) need cable management. Loose cables are tripping hazards and can be pulled out.

• Use cable clips or conduit to secure the wire along the wall.
• Route the cable away from foot traffic and water sources.
• If running through a wall, use a grommet to protect the wire from sharp edges.

For outdoor runs, use weatherproof conduit or bury the cable in a PVC pipe. I once had a cable chewed by a squirrel—never again.

Label the cable at both ends with tape or tags. Trust me, you’ll thank yourself later when you need to troubleshoot.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pro Tip #1: Use the Arlo App’s “Test Mode” – Before drilling, set your camera on a ladder and use the app to check the field of view, motion detection, and Wi-Fi signal. Save yourself a headache later.

Pro Tip #2: Weatherproof the Mount – Even “weather-resistant” mounts can degrade. Apply a small bead of silicone around screw heads and seams. It’s cheap insurance.

Pro Tip #3: Avoid “Over-Mounting” – Don’t install too many cameras. One well-placed camera is better than three poorly placed ones. Focus on high-traffic areas.

Common Mistake: Ignoring the Sun – I once pointed a camera directly at the west-facing door. By 6 PM, the sun blinded the lens. Now I always check the sun’s path using apps like Sun Surveyor.

Common Mistake: Cheap Anchors – Don’t use dollar-store anchors for outdoor mounts. They’ll fail in a storm. Invest in Tapcon screws or stainless steel anchors.

Common Mistake: Skipping the Level – A crooked camera looks unprofessional and misses key areas. Always use a level. A $5 tool is worth every penny.

Pro Tip #4: Plan for Maintenance – Mount the camera where you can easily reach it for cleaning, battery swaps, or firmware updates. Don’t put it on a 12-foot roof unless you love ladders.

Also, if you’re in a rental property, check your lease. Some landlords require removable mounts. In that case, use heavy-duty adhesive strips (like 3M VHB) or magnetic mounts. Just make sure they can hold the camera’s weight.

FAQs About How to Mount Arlo Camera to Wall in 2026 Expert Tips

Q: Can I mount an Arlo camera on stucco without drilling?

Yes, but it’s risky. Adhesive mounts (like 3M Command strips) work for light cameras (Arlo Essential), but they can fail in heat or rain. For stucco, I recommend light drilling with a small masonry bit and Tapcon screws. It’s more secure and lasts years.

Q: How high should I mount my Arlo camera?

7–9 feet is ideal. High enough to avoid tampering, low enough to capture faces. If you’re in a high-crime area, go 8–9 feet. Just make sure you can still access it for cleaning.

Q: Can I mount an Arlo camera on a tree?

Yes! Use a tree strap mount (Arlo sells one) or a flexible arm mount. Wrap the strap around the trunk and tighten. Avoid nails or screws—they can harm the tree and loosen over time.

Q: What if my wall is uneven or textured?

Textured walls (like stucco) are fine—just drill slowly. For uneven surfaces, use spacers or washers behind the mount to keep it level. I use plastic shims from the hardware store.

Q: How do I hide the Arlo camera cable?

For wired models, run the cable along baseboards or gutters. Use cable clips or paint it to match the wall. For outdoor runs, bury it 6 inches deep in a PVC conduit. Just don’t run it under concrete—you’ll never access it if it fails.

Q: Can I mount an Arlo camera on a metal surface?

Yes, but avoid direct metal-to-metal contact. Use a plastic or rubber spacer to prevent rust and vibration. For magnetic mounts, the metal surface must be flat and clean.

Q: What’s the best way to test the mount before installing the camera?

Attach the mount first, then hang a weighted bag (like a water bottle or tool pouch) from it. Let it sit for 24 hours. If it holds, your mount is solid. I do this for every outdoor install—it’s saved me from multiple failures.

Final Thoughts

Mounting an Arlo camera isn’t rocket science, but it does take attention to detail. The difference between a good install and a great one? A few extra minutes of planning and the right tools.

Remember: how to mount Arlo camera to wall in 2026 expert tips is all about durability, coverage, and ease of maintenance. Don’t rush it. Take your time, test everything, and don’t be afraid to reposition if something feels off.

And hey, if you mess up? No shame. I’ve had to redrill holes, replace anchors, and even move cameras after realizing they were pointing at a bush. It’s part of the process.

Now go secure your home—one well-mounted camera at a time. And when you’re done, pour yourself a coffee (or tea). You’ve earned it.