Mounting an Arlo security camera on brick in 2026 is simple and secure when you use the right tools and techniques. Begin by using a masonry drill bit and anchors to ensure a stable installation that withstands weather and tampering. With Arlo’s updated mounting hardware and a few DIY steps, you’ll have reliable, wire-free surveillance in under 30 minutes.

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How to Mount Arlo Security Camera on Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Key Takeaways

• Choose the right drill bit: Use a masonry bit for clean, precise holes in brick.
• Secure with wall anchors: Always use anchors to ensure camera stability on brick.
• Mark positions carefully: Measure and mark drill spots to avoid misalignment.
• Weatherproof the mount: Seal gaps with silicone to protect wiring from moisture.
• Test camera angle: Adjust and tighten mount to cover the desired field of view.
• Use manufacturer guidelines: Follow Arlo’s instructions for optimal mounting height and placement.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

Let’s be honest—mounting a security camera on brick feels like solving a puzzle with missing pieces. You want full coverage of your front porch, but that rough, uneven surface? It’s not exactly camera-mount-friendly.

I learned this the hard way last summer. I tried using regular screws on my Arlo Pro 4, and after two rainy nights, the camera was dangling like a forgotten Christmas ornament. The brick cracked around the screw, the angle was off, and worst of all—it didn’t even cover the side gate.

That’s when I realized: how to mount Arlo security camera on brick in 2026 easy guide isn’t just about drilling holes. It’s about doing it right the first time—so your camera stays put, your footage stays clear, and you don’t end up with a $200 paperweight on the ground.

Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a seasoned pro, this guide walks you through every step with real-world tips, tools you already own, and the kind of honesty you’d expect from a neighbor who’s been there, done that, and learned from the mistakes.

By the end, you’ll not only know how to mount Arlo security camera on brick in 2026 easy guide, but you’ll also avoid the three biggest pitfalls 90% of people make—like stripping anchors, choosing the wrong location, or forgetting to weatherproof.

What You Need

Before you grab the drill, let’s talk tools and materials. Don’t worry—most of these are in your garage or toolbox. If not, they’re cheap and easy to find at any hardware store.

• Arlo security camera (any model) – I’ve tested this with Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, and Essential. All work the same way.
• Masonry drill bit (6mm or 1/4″) – This is non-negotiable. Wood bits will burn out and fail on brick. I use a Bosch 6mm SDS-Plus bit—it’s a workhorse.
• Hammer drill (or regular drill with hammer function) – Brick needs impact. A regular drill will overheat. If you don’t have one, rent it for $15 at Home Depot.
• Masonry anchors (plastic or metal) – I prefer 6mm x 40mm nylon anchors. They grip better and resist cracking.
• Screwdriver or drill bit for Arlo mounting plate – Usually a Phillips #2. The Arlo kit includes the screw, but not always the right anchor.
• Measuring tape – For precise placement.
• Pencil or marker – To mark drill points.
• Level (laser or bubble) – Nothing worse than a crooked camera. Trust me.
• Safety glasses and dust mask – Brick dust is no joke. Protect your eyes and lungs.
• Vacuum or brush – To clean out the holes.
• Silicone caulk (optional) – For extra weather sealing. I use GE Advanced Silicone 2.

Bonus: If you’re mounting high up, grab a step ladder and a helper. I once tried balancing on a chair. Not my finest moment.

Pro Insight: Don’t skip the anchor size. Arlo’s stock anchors are often too short for dense brick. Upgrade to 40mm or 50mm for a rock-solid hold.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Mount Arlo Security Camera on Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Step 1: Choose the Perfect Spot (Don’t Rush This!)

This is where most people fail. You want coverage, but not at the cost of stability or visibility.

• Stand where you want to monitor (e.g., front door, side alley) and walk around to test blind spots.
• Look for a spot that’s:
  • At least 7–9 feet high (out of reach, but clear view)
  • Near a power source (if using wired) or within Wi-Fi range (for wireless)
  • Not under an eave that blocks the lens or causes glare
  • On solid, uncracked brick (avoid old, crumbly sections)

I once mounted my camera under a porch light, thinking it’d help with night vision. Big mistake. The lens reflected the light like a disco ball. Now I avoid direct light sources.

Use your phone’s Arlo app to test Wi-Fi signal strength before drilling. Move around the area and check the signal indicator. Weak signal? Try a different spot or add a Wi-Fi extender.

Tip: Snap a photo of the area and draw a rough sketch. Mark where the camera will go and what it’ll see. It sounds silly, but it saves time later.

Step 2: Mark and Measure (Precision Matters)

Grab your pencil, level, and tape measure. This step is all about accuracy.

• Hold the Arlo mounting plate against the brick where you want it.
• Use the level to make sure it’s perfectly horizontal. A crooked base = a crooked camera.
• Mark the center of each screw hole with a pencil. I use a small dot—big enough to see, small enough to avoid errors.
• Double-check the distance between marks (usually 2.5 inches for Arlo plates).

Pro tip: If you’re mounting multiple cameras, measure from a fixed point (like the edge of the house or a window) so they’re aligned. I use the corner of the front door as my “zero point.”

Now, check for obstacles. Run your finger over the brick. Is there mortar? A crack? A knot? Drilling into mortar is weak. Drilling into a crack? Disaster. Pick a solid brick section.

Warning: Avoid drilling near electrical wires or pipes. If you’re unsure, use a stud finder with AC detection or call a pro.

Step 3: Drill Pilot Holes (Go Slow, Stay Cool)

Time to drill. But don’t rush. Brick is unforgiving.

• Insert your 6mm masonry bit into the drill.
• Set your drill to hammer mode (if available). This is critical.
• Put on safety glasses and a dust mask.
• Start at low speed. Apply light pressure—let the hammer action do the work.
• Drill to a depth of about 1.5 to 2 inches. The anchor needs room to expand.

I drill in short bursts (3–5 seconds), then pull out to clear dust. This prevents overheating and keeps the hole clean. If the bit gets hot, stop and let it cool. A dull bit is a dangerous bit.

After drilling, vacuum or blow out the dust. A clogged hole = a loose anchor. I use a small brush to sweep the edges clean.

Common Mistake: Drilling too fast. You’ll strip the bit, crack the brick, or burn out your drill. Slow and steady wins this race.

Step 4: Insert Anchors (Listen for the Click)

This step is satisfying—if you do it right.

• Take your 6mm x 40mm masonry anchor and push it into the hole by hand.
• If it’s tight, tap it gently with a hammer. Stop when the top is flush with the brick.
• You should feel it expand inside the brick. No wobble.

I once used anchors that were too short. After a week, the camera sagged. Lesson learned: longer anchors = better grip. For older brick, go with 50mm.

Test the anchor by wiggling it. It should feel solid. If it moves, remove it, clean the hole, and try again. Sometimes the hole is too big. In that case, use a larger anchor or fill the gap with epoxy (I use Loctite PL Premium).

Pro Tip: Label your anchors. I write “Arlo” on them with a permanent marker. Helps if you’re mounting multiple devices.

Step 5: Attach the Mounting Plate (Tight but Not Too Tight)

Now the camera’s base goes on.

• Line up the Arlo mounting plate with the anchors.
• Insert the screws (usually included with Arlo) and tighten with a screwdriver or drill.
• Don’t over-tighten. You want it snug, not cracked.
• Use the level again to confirm it’s still straight.

I use a torque screwdriver set to 15 in-lbs. It’s overkill, but I’ve stripped too many screws in the past. A regular screwdriver works fine—just stop when you feel resistance.

If the plate wobbles, remove it, check the anchors, and re-tighten. A loose plate means a loose camera. And a loose camera means blurry footage or, worse, a broken lens.

Warning: Don’t use power tools on high torque. You’ll strip the screw head or crack the anchor. Hand-tighten first, then give one final quarter-turn.

Step 6: Mount the Camera (Snap It On)

Almost there! This is the easiest part.

• Align the Arlo camera with the mounting plate.
• Press down until you hear a click. That’s the magnetic base locking in.
• Adjust the angle by rotating the camera. Aim for a 45-degree downward tilt for best coverage.

I test the angle by standing in the target area and checking the live feed on the Arlo app. Can I see my front step? The mailbox? The side gate? If not, tweak the angle.

For outdoor models, make sure the lens is slightly tilted down. This prevents rain from pooling and blocking the view.

Pro Tip: Use the Arlo app’s “View” mode to fine-tune. You’ll see exactly what the camera sees—no guesswork.

Step 7: Weatherproof and Secure (Don’t Skip This!)

Brick looks tough, but moisture is its kryptonite. Protect your camera.

• Apply a small bead of clear silicone caulk around the base of the camera where it meets the brick.
• Smooth it with a finger (wear gloves) to seal gaps.
• Let it cure for 24 hours before exposing to rain.

I also wrap the power cord (if using wired) with electrical tape where it meets the wall. Prevents fraying and water ingress.

For extra security, consider a security screw (like a Torx T10) instead of the stock Phillips. It’s harder to remove, so less likely to be stolen.

Real Talk: I skipped this step on my first camera. After a storm, water seeped in and ruined the battery. $10 in caulk would’ve saved $150.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

After mounting 12 Arlo cameras (and fixing 3 disasters), here’s what I wish I knew:

• Don’t trust “self-tapping” screws on brick. They work on wood, not brick. Always use anchors.
• Avoid mortar joints. They’re weaker than brick. If you must, use a longer anchor and epoxy.
• Test Wi-Fi before drilling. A weak signal leads to laggy footage and false alerts.
• Use a laser level for multiple cameras. It keeps them aligned and looks professional.
• Label your cameras in the app. “Front Door,” “Back Gate,” etc. Saves time later.
• Check alignment after rain. Brick expands when wet. Recheck level every few months.

Biggest Mistake: Not cleaning the hole. Dust = loose anchor = camera on the ground. Always vacuum or blow out the hole.

One time, I used a regular drill bit. It overheated and snapped. I had to chisel it out with a hammer. Took 30 minutes. A $10 masonry bit would’ve saved me the hassle.

Also, don’t mount too close to windows. Sun glare can wash out the image, especially at dawn and dusk. I keep mine at least 3 feet away.

FAQs About How to Mount Arlo Security Camera on Brick in 2026 Easy Guide

Q: Can I use regular drywall anchors on brick?
A: No. Drywall anchors are for soft materials. Brick needs masonry anchors. I tried it once. The anchor pulled out in a week. Save yourself the trouble—use the right tool for the job.

Q: Do I need a hammer drill?
A: Yes, if you value your time and sanity. A regular drill will overheat and fail. If you don’t have one, rent it. Home Depot charges $15/day. Worth every penny.

Q: What if my brick is old and crumbly?
A: Use epoxy. Drill the hole, fill it with construction adhesive (like PL Premium), insert a longer anchor, and let it cure for 24 hours. I did this on my 1920s house—still rock solid after 3 years.

Q: Can I mount the camera upside down?
A: Yes, but only if your Arlo model supports it (like the Arlo Essential). In the app, enable “Inverted Mount.” I did this under my porch—gives a wider view of the driveway.

Q: How do I hide the power cord?
A: Use a cord cover (like Legrand) or run it behind trim. I tuck mine under the eave and seal the entry point with silicone. Looks clean and keeps critters out.

Q: Will rain damage the camera?
A: Arlo cameras are weather-resistant (IP65), but not waterproof. Avoid direct downpours. Mount under an eave or use a small awning. I added a $5 plastic hood—no issues in heavy rain.

Q: How often should I check the mount?
A: Every 3–6 months. Brick shifts, anchors can loosen, and caulk dries out. A 5-minute check saves you from a $200 repair.

Final Thoughts

Mounting an Arlo camera on brick isn’t rocket science—but it is detail science. The difference between a camera that lasts 5 years and one that falls in 5 months? A few smart choices: the right bit, the right anchor, and a little patience.

You now know how to mount Arlo security camera on brick in 2026 easy guide—not just the steps, but the why behind them. You’ve seen the mistakes, the fixes, and the shortcuts that actually work.

So grab your drill, put on those safety glasses, and go for it. Start with one camera. Test it. Adjust it. Then move to the next. In a few hours, you’ll have a security setup that’s not just functional—but bulletproof.

And hey, if you run into a snag? That’s okay. I’ve been there. Take a breath, check this guide, and keep going. Your home—and your peace of mind—are worth it.

Now go make your house the safest on the block. One brick at a time.

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