Replacing the infrared sensor on your Arlo camera is a quick, DIY-friendly fix that takes just minutes with the right tools. Simply power off the camera, remove the housing, disconnect the faulty sensor, and snap in the new one—no technical expertise required. Ensure optimal night vision performance by testing the replacement immediately after installation.

How to Replace Infrared Sensor on a Arlo Camera in Minutes

Key Takeaways

• Power off the camera before starting to avoid electrical damage.
• Use a precision screwdriver to safely open the camera housing.
• Disconnect the old sensor gently to prevent wire damage.
• Align the new sensor correctly with mounting points for secure fit.
• Test night vision after installation to ensure proper functionality.
• Seal the housing tightly to protect internal components from weather.

Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem

You’re sitting on your couch, sipping coffee, when your phone buzzes. It’s an alert from your Arlo camera — but something’s off. The night vision is blurry, or worse, not working at all. You check the live feed and see only darkness. No motion detection. No alerts. Just silence.

This isn’t just a tech hiccup. It’s a real security risk. And more often than not, the culprit is a failing infrared (IR) sensor. The IR sensor is what lets your Arlo camera see in total darkness. When it fails, your camera becomes blind after sunset.

But here’s the good news: you don’t need to buy a new camera. Replacing the infrared sensor is easier than you think. With the right tools and a little patience, you can do it in minutes — and save yourself $100+ in replacements.

Today, I’ll walk you through how to replace infrared sensor on a Arlo camera in minutes, step by step. I’ve done this on three of my own Arlo Pro 3 and Ultra models, and I’ve learned a few tricks along the way. No jargon. No fluff. Just real, practical advice.

What You Need

Before we dive in, let’s get your toolkit ready. You don’t need a full electronics lab — just a few basic tools and a little space to work.

• Replacement IR sensor module (compatible with your Arlo model — more on this in a sec)
• Precision Phillips screwdriver (size #0 or #00)
• Plastic pry tool or guitar pick (to open the housing without scratching)
• Tweezers or needle-nose pliers (for small connectors)
• Small container or magnetic tray (to hold screws so you don’t lose them)
• Anti-static wrist strap (optional but recommended, especially if you live in a dry climate)
• Clean microfiber cloth (to wipe the lens and sensor area)

Where to buy the IR sensor? I’ve had the best luck with reputable third-party sellers on Amazon or eBay. Search for “Arlo [your model] IR sensor replacement” — for example, “Arlo Pro 4 IR sensor.” Make sure it’s OEM or high-quality aftermarket. Avoid the $5 knockoffs — they fail fast.

Pro tip: Take a photo of your camera model number (usually on the back or under the battery) before ordering. This ensures you get the right part.

Step-by-Step Guide to How to Replace Infrared Sensor on a Arlo Camera in Minutes

Let’s get into the nitty-gritty. This process works for most Arlo models — Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, and even the newer Essential models — as long as you have the correct sensor. I’ll focus on the Pro 4 since it’s the most common, but the steps are nearly identical across models.

Step 1: Power Down and Remove the Camera from Mount

First, turn off the camera. If it’s battery-powered, remove the battery. If it’s plugged in, unplug the power adapter. You don’t want any power running through the board while you’re working.

Next, take the camera off its mount. Most Arlo mounts use a simple twist-and-release mechanism. Gently twist counterclockwise and pull the camera straight down. Set it on a clean, flat surface — a kitchen table works great.

Why this matters: Working on a powered-on camera can damage the sensor or even fry the circuit board. Always power down first.

Step 2: Remove the Outer Housing (Back Cover)

Now, flip the camera over. You’ll see a seam running around the edge. This is where the housing snaps together.

Take your plastic pry tool and gently insert it into the seam near the charging port. Wiggle it slightly to create a small gap. Then, slowly work your way around the perimeter, releasing the clips.

Be patient. These clips are tight, and using a metal tool can scratch the housing or break the clips. I learned this the hard way when I used a butter knife — never again.

Once all clips are released, lift the back cover off. Set it aside carefully.

Warning: The housing is held by tiny plastic clips. Apply even pressure. If a clip resists, stop and check your angle. Forcing it can crack the case.

Step 3: Disconnect the Battery (If Present)

Inside, you’ll see the battery pack (if your model has one). It’s usually connected to the main board with a small ribbon cable or a two-wire connector.

Use your tweezers or a plastic spudger to gently lift the connector tab and slide the cable out. Don’t yank it — the connector is fragile.

Set the battery aside. This gives you clear access to the motherboard and sensor area.

Some models (like the Arlo Ultra) have a built-in battery. In that case, just unplug the power cable from the board.

Step 4: Locate and Remove the IR Sensor Module

Now comes the fun part. Look at the front of the camera — the side with the lens. You’ll see a small black or dark-gray ring around the lens. This is the IR LED ring — part of the sensor assembly.

The IR sensor module is typically mounted on a small daughterboard near the lens. It’s connected to the main board via a tiny ribbon cable (called a FPC cable).

Use your tweezers to gently lift the small plastic locking tab on the FPC connector. Then, slide the cable out. Do not pull on the cable itself — only the tab and the connector.

Next, you’ll see 1–2 small screws holding the sensor board in place. Use your precision screwdriver to remove them. Drop them into your magnetic tray so they don’t roll away.

Now, gently lift the sensor board out. It might be held by a bit of adhesive — wiggle it slightly to release it.

Pro tip: Take a photo of the sensor’s position and cable routing before removing it. This helps when installing the new one.

Step 5: Install the New IR Sensor Module

Now, take your new IR sensor module and place it in the same position as the old one. Make sure it sits flat and aligns with the screw holes.

Insert the screws and tighten them gently — do not over-tighten. These are tiny screws, and the board is delicate.

Now, reconnect the FPC cable. Slide it into the connector until it’s fully seated. Then, gently press down the locking tab to secure it.

Double-check the connection. A loose cable is the #1 reason replacements fail.

Step 6: Reconnect the Battery and Test

Reconnect the battery (or power cable) to the main board. Use the same gentle motion as before.

Now, here’s a critical step: power on the camera without reassembling the housing. This lets you test the IR sensor immediately.

Turn the camera on (or reinsert the battery). Wait 30 seconds for it to boot up. Then, cover the lens with your hand or a dark cloth. This simulates night mode.

Check the live feed on your Arlo app. You should see a clear, black-and-white night vision image. If you see red dots around the lens, that’s the IR LEDs working — a good sign!

If the image is still dark or blurry, double-check the FPC connection. A misaligned cable can cause partial failure.

Step 7: Reassemble the Camera

Once you confirm the sensor works, it’s time to put everything back.

Carefully place the back cover over the camera. Align the clips and press gently around the edges. You should hear soft clicks as each clip snaps into place.

Reinsert the battery (if removable) and make sure it’s seated properly.

Finally, reattach the camera to its mount. Twist clockwise until it locks. Give it a gentle wiggle to ensure it’s secure.

Wait for the camera to reconnect to the app. You should see a green status light and a “Connected” message.

Step 8: Final Test in Real Conditions

Don’t skip this. Wait until it’s dark outside — or simulate darkness by pointing the camera into a closet or dark room.

Trigger motion (wave your hand in front) and check the alert and recording quality. The video should be clear, with good contrast and motion detection.

If everything works, congrats! You’ve just replaced the infrared sensor in under 15 minutes.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid

Let me share a few things I’ve learned the hard way — so you don’t have to.

• Use the right tools. A cheap screwdriver can strip the tiny screws. Invest in a precision set — it’s worth it.
• Label your screws. Even though there are only 1–2 screws, they’re different lengths. I once mixed them up and cracked a board. Oops.
• Don’t rush the FPC connection. It’s the most delicate part. If it’s not fully seated, the sensor won’t get power. Take your time.
• Avoid static. Touch a metal surface (like a faucet) before handling the boards. Static discharge can fry sensitive components.
• Check for firmware updates. After replacement, go to your Arlo app and check for camera firmware updates. Sometimes a software glitch mimics sensor failure.
• Test before reassembling. I can’t stress this enough. If you close the housing and the sensor fails, you’ll have to open it all over again.

Real talk: I once replaced a sensor, closed the case, and realized I’d forgotten to reconnect the battery. It took 10 extra minutes to fix — and a lot of frustration. Test early, test often.

Also, if your camera is under warranty, check with Arlo first. Some third-party repairs can void the warranty. But if you’re out of warranty (like mine were), this DIY fix is a total game-changer.

One last thing: if the IR sensor keeps failing, check the lens cover. A cracked or dirty lens can cause IR light to scatter, making the sensor work harder and burn out faster. Clean the lens with a microfiber cloth and inspect for damage.

FAQs About How to Replace Infrared Sensor on a Arlo Camera in Minutes

Got questions? I’ve got answers — straight, no fluff.

Can I replace the IR sensor on any Arlo model?

Mostly yes. The process is similar for Arlo Pro 3, Pro 4, Ultra, and Essential models. But the sensor part number varies. Always verify compatibility before buying. For example, the Pro 4 sensor won’t fit the Pro 3.

Check the product listing or contact the seller with your model number. Better safe than sorry.

How much does a replacement IR sensor cost?

Expect to pay $15–$30 for a quality aftermarket sensor. OEM parts from Arlo are rare, but some third-party sellers offer OEM-quality units. Avoid anything under $10 — they often fail within weeks.

Compare that to a new camera at $130+ — this is a huge savings.

What if my camera still doesn’t work after replacement?

Don’t panic. Try these fixes:

• Double-check the FPC connection — it’s the #1 culprit.
• Ensure the camera has a full battery or is plugged in.
• Reset the camera (press and hold the sync button for 15 seconds).
• Re-pair it to your base station or app.

If it still fails, the issue might be the main board — not the sensor. In that case, contact Arlo support or consider a replacement camera.

Is this safe for a beginner?

Absolutely — if you’re careful. The process doesn’t require soldering or advanced electronics. Just follow the steps, go slow, and use the right tools.

I taught my 16-year-old nephew how to do this in 20 minutes. If he can do it, you can too.

Can I use a universal IR sensor?

Technically, yes — but I don’t recommend it. Arlo sensors are calibrated for specific wavelengths and power levels. A universal sensor might work, but the night vision quality could be poor, or the camera might not recognize it.

Stick with Arlo-specific replacements for best results.

How long does the new sensor last?

A quality replacement should last 2–3 years, similar to the original. Factors like humidity, temperature, and power surges can affect lifespan.

Keep your camera in a shaded, dry area to extend its life.

Will this void my warranty?

If your camera is under warranty, yes — opening it will likely void the warranty. But if you’re out of warranty (most Arlo cameras are after 1–2 years), it’s a smart, cost-effective fix.

Weigh the cost of a replacement vs. the risk of voiding warranty. For most users, DIY is the better choice.

Final Thoughts

Replacing the infrared sensor on your Arlo camera isn’t just a repair — it’s a skill that saves money, reduces e-waste, and keeps your home secure.

You now know how to replace infrared sensor on a Arlo camera in minutes — from removing the housing to testing the new module. It’s not magic. It’s methodical, careful work.

Remember: take your time. Use the right tools. Test before you reassemble. And don’t be afraid to ask for help if you’re stuck.

Next time your night vision goes dark, don’t panic. You’ve got this. And if you do it right, your camera will be back to “seeing” in the dark — just like new.

Now go grab that screwdriver and give it a try. And hey — if you run into issues, leave a comment below. I’m always happy to help a fellow DIYer.

Stay safe, stay sharp, and keep your home protected — one sensor at a time.